DOCUMENTING FOR OUR FAMILY, FRIENDS AND OTHER INNOCENT BYSTANDERS,
THE SIGHTS, SOUNDS AND TASTES OF OUR VARIOUS ADVENTURES.

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TUESDAY 10.2.2001

Rome to Palermo with stops inbetween

Ciao from Sicily!!!!

This will be very involved, as we must refer to notes. And… of course, the ever tiring Illy took a nap and left her glasses on the bed, hidden from the ever frustrated Chuck who was trying to get a file sent via long distance, and who sat on her glasses breaking off the left temple...
While a minor disaster, this could be a blessing in disguise.... at least it may keep her from seeing too much as we drive along the congested and insane streets of Italy and from going “OOOFFFF” and EEEEKKK as we dodge the Kamikazie scooters and Italian multi lane users. (Well, actually there are no lanes.... usually 6 abreast at any stop light... what little of those that are obeyed) and STOP signs must mean, “roll through at 30 MPH” in Italian.


But as usual... I’m ahead of the story.

Today’s journal starts with the beginning of our Monument tour of Rome on Friday. We were picked up by a cute little trolley and deposited at the Tour office where we waited for the bus to take us around to see: the Pantheon, Trevi fountain, Piazza Navona, some other Big building with lots of pillars (we were rushed through these so fast that I only remember that half of the original Piazza and portico were under the shops across the square from it).

The tour ended with the Vatican. This only took us to Noon on Friday. Our Guide, Luciano who claims to have been there when the Pantheon was finished in 25 B.C. (and he looks it too) was fun, but way too quick through the stops. He was very emotional about St Peters Cathedral, but in all... not what we expected... perhaps the reason why we did not book many tours and did most of it on our own.
After Luciano concluded, we stayed at the Vatican and took the Museo Vaticani tour with the intention of breezing through the Sistine Chapel and heading out to see more of Rome...
WRONNNGGGG!!!!!

One does not “breeze” through the Vatican Museum. For those of you who have made this trek.... you will remember that they take you through miles.... and miles... and MILES of art... sculptures.... and tapestry.... and rooms.... and maps.... and up.... and down... Across.... around and back... (I just got winded remembering) and more maps... and more rooms...and more tapestry.... until finally you get to the chapel....
Now, everywhere else you can take non-flash photos.... but in the Chapel “NO FOTO!!!!” Screams the little “Napoleonic like Guarda”... NO FOTO!!!! Well.... have you ever known Chuckie to follow ALL the rules???? OK…. so now the ever paranoid Illy is backing away from him and pretending that she never saw him before in her life.... as the Guard Glares at Chuck.... “NO FOTO!!!!!” (Yeah, right... Click....) Of course we had used up all the 800 ASA Super fast film in Firenze and all we had was 400 ASA , so we’ll see what comes out. All in all, the trek was well worth it, as any one who has seen it first hand can attest.... all the “FOTOS” in the books will never do it the justice of personal observation. [ed. Note: some Fotos actually did come out good]

So now we try to find our way out.... after miles... and miles... and… ok you get it....
We wander into a cute little bar for a quick “spuntino” (“snack” to youse guys).... and then off to find the Metro to get to the Spanish Steps before the American Express Closes for a quick currency exchange. (But first we stopped at the internet kiosk to write the Journal of Sept 30 wherein we recounted the last day of Firenze and the Train Trip) in case you forgot.

So, after the frustrating rewrite [after losing the first version due to the not so nimble fingered Chuck and the Foreign keyboard] we dash off to find the Metro when the somewhat irritated but still ever vigilant Illy says...
”Where’s your new hat?!?!?”
”Oopppppsssss” I said, "Didn’t I have it at the Internet Kiosk?.... No Wait... must have left it on the Chair at lunch...."

Ssooooo.... [40 feet from the Metro.... 6 blocks from the Restaurant] we head back (The ever breathless Illy swears “at a gallop”) getting lost twice along the way, to retrieve the hat.
Lovely Cashier lady says....”AHHHH IL Capello.... Here it is” (all in Italian of course.....)
Soooooo.... now with hat firmly on head, and an increasingly breathless Cuban Lady Glaring at me... we go to find the Metro to get to the Spanish Steps and the.... by now closed... AMEX office. The Metro ride was uneventful. All reports of its usefulness are correct.... Cheap and quick around town.

Upon arrival at the Steps, we just had to climb to the middle to look out upon.... not much.... a bunch of kids... and lovers… and old folks just sitting on the steps.... looking at all the... kids... lovers and old folks... who were... ok you get it.

Soooo The now panting Illy says.. “We gotta go see the shops and the Amex office,” (which of course was indeed closed). After a quick stop for some more “over priced” KODAK.... we decide its time to go find Gabriele (you remember… the little waiter who was to be our guide) so of course we have to climb the steps again, ’cause that’s the way back to Via Veneto.... (Supposedly quicker than backtracking to the Metro... which stops right there in Piazza Barberini.) But Hey… we need to walk off all this pasta.

Now we head up the steps (“Are we there yet?” She whimpers half way up.... and “Pant....pant.... pant, are we near the top?”.... And push... push... push to get her the rest of the way....
”But Honey.... look at the lovely view that you wanted to see from here,” I offered....
”Shut up and keep walking”, the ever tired Illy Barks...”and Feed ME!!!”

On the way to Via Veneto... the best one liner to come from a local was when we passed this little restaurant and overheard the Proprietor saying to an obvious tourist...
”But you see....My Pizza is not BUBBLE Gum like in America!!!” “You don’t have to Chew...Chew....Chew!!!”

Now ya gotta picture this, we’re tired… cranky… and just plain numb and from outta nowhere comes this one liner…
I thought for sure that Illy (and I) were going to LOSE IT right there on the spot... It was hilarious to see the look on the tourist face as the owner insisted it was not Bubble Gum.... I gave the owner a High Five (which he understood) and thanked him for the best laugh of the trip so far. (all in Italian of course)... Getting pretty good at this Lingo here.

Upon arrival at the Gran Cafe Roma, we finally meet up with Gabriele who tells us that he had the day off yesterday with his car at ready to take us around... (unfortunately if you recall....late trains....etc... kept that from happening) Soooooo… after a couple of Coffees, Gabriele agrees to pick us up at the hotel Saturday in the morning because he can drive his car into the City on the Weekend. (If you don’t live in the City center.... you can’t drive a car in on the weekdays)
A quick walk back to the hotel.... past the American Embassy (very heavily guarded on all corners and entrances by the Carbinieri) past the famous Chica Chica Boom Night club... (never did get in there to find out what all the limos were about) past Hard Rock Cafe and on to a cute little Neapolitan Restaurant around the corner from the hotel..... Had a lovely meal, good wine and then off to bed.

The next day started with the Desk clerk telling Gabriele that we had already left.... But we caught him just outside before he could get away. The day was his choice and it was a wonderful one... Castel Gondolfo, the home of the Pope when he is not in the Vatican. A delightful and quaint little village on a steep hill top [that was a strategic military spot during WW II] adjacent to his Palazzo with a beautiful church in the square.... Where… (It’s Saturday) and there is a Wedding about to begin.... (Those who know “Caterer” Chuck.... know that he can never resist a Bride.... Sooooooo… pictures all around as well as the interior of the church, simply gorgeous and the Bride was stunning...)

Ohhhhhhh… Illy hastens to remind us.... the climb up was very exhausting... and the walk back even trickier... the cobble stone are a bit slippery. (Some may remember that a few years back, Illy fell down all over San Francisco.... now Chuckie trips all over Italy)

After our erstwhile guide gets a little lost on the way back (The locals do that too) he takes us to one of his former places of employment. A charming little restaurant where there where kisses all around when he entered, and which had the Greatest Bufala Mozzarella I have ever had! By now it was getting late and he had to get to work, so we had him drop us off at the Stazione Termini to check on our car for the next day.

After that it was off to see the Coloseo. While searching for the right metro... and not being able to get tickets from the machine.... Chuckie searches for a ticket kiosk and is greeted by a very affable gentleman who proceeds to hustle the ever “Gullible Chuck” out of £1,200 for a bogus Bus ticket, which, Chuck proceeds to convince the Bus Driver that it was good for the trip to the Coloseo. The lovely British Passenger next to us properly translated the ticket and giggled that we got away with it. We promptly jumped off the bus at the Coloseo and hustled to the entrance before the driver got the wiser.

Now.... The Score is about to be Lions and Centurions 2.... Chuckie 0, as Chuck is accosted by two Roman Soldiers, circa 45 B.C. [film at Eleven... or pictures to follow on our return]

(NOTE: Doug Sidewand.... your Coloseo Sky Box has been officially reserved... Logia ix, Level xxxii.... see Quintus Maximus xii for more information. p.s. The Lions renegotiated their contract and will stay 2 more years)


If you haven’t done the Coloseo.... Ya Gotta!!! Truly Unbelievable!!!... [They have actually restored part of the ground level where the games took place to give you a sense of what it was like in 50 BC.]


From there, we trekked up the Piazza to the Palintine area and the Roman Forum for some pretty nice pictures at dusk...


Having been chased out of the Forum by the guard at closing, we grabbed a cab to our hotel to change for dinner at the “Il Pancrazio” [recommended by frequent traveler friends] which is built on top of the Teatro Di Pompei near the Piazza Fiore.

For those who remember their history, it was in the Curia outside the Teatro di Pompei where Julius Cesar was Knifed in the back by Brutus and Cassius. (The Teatro was patterned after the one in Pompeii and the Curia was built adjacent to it so that the Roman Senate could conduct business without leaving the Teatro… [typical self serving politicians!]
Great dinner, and a quick look at the ruins below... then off in the rain to see Piazza Venetia.

Thank Heavens for the ever-present Nigerian street vendors who provided a little “Ombrello” for the princely sum of £10,000. [$5.00] Cheap at twice the price.
The walk ended some 8 blocks later only to find that you can never get into the Piazza Venezia... even in the Day time. [according to a local found near there] It is a Military establishment and home to the Tomb of the Italian Unknown Soldier... but the pictures at night should be great. [Ed. Note: The pics came out GREAT! And… the Hooker was wrong… see notes further below.]

Short cab ride back to the Gran Cafe Roma for a Quick coffee, and goodbye to Gabriele.... And the picture we forgot to take earlier that day [as he blew a Kiss to Christina]. It would have been great with his cute lavender Leather Pants, Turtle Neck Sweater and Gucci Shades [Christina... TO DIE FOR.... but sadly, taken... the wedding is on New Years Eve in Washington D.C.]
And the now the Daring Illy is introduced to, not one but TWO Lemoncello’s (that wonderful, and powerful Lemon liqueur from Positano). Kisses and Ciao’s all around and we’re off to the hotel.

Are you out of breath yet.... we were...

A quick pack the night before made the exit from the hotel easy the next morning and then a brisk walk to the train station for our Alfa Romeo 156. Good thing we got there early.... it took 1¼ hours to get through the line. (Hmmmm only one clerk on Sunday). A short walk to the garage and the car is delivered. Then a quick stop at the Hotel ScottHouse for a reservation for the return to Rome on the 4th (in a little seedy area near the train station, because we need to catch the earliest train to the airport and don’t want to walk too far that early) .

Then it was off to Positano... but first... the not so clear thinking Chuck (too much coffee the night before + 2 Lemoncello’s= little sleep) decides they forgot to see Tivoli!!!! Hey... this should be quick... (yeah, right…) the trip was..... the lunch before going into the Villa Este & Gardens was NOT. It was a somewhat wasted hour plus for a marginal Pizza served with serious lybad attitude. Tivoli Gardens lovely.... fountains unbelievable.... walk exhausting... more great pictures and it was Finally, off to Positano.

Now.... between the OOOooffffs and EEEEkkkksss.. and EEEEgaddsss (hereafter O...E... will signify her ooooofffing and Eeeeeking and Egadding all the way) these drivers really get to her and by now she has a hole in the floorboard on the passengers side where her brake was supposed to have been installed, The ever lovely and detailed Illy is going to navigate between o....e’s.... However.... map reading 101 was not on her last class schedule, especially not in Italian!!! In addition, the exit sign for Napoli from the Autostrada did not say that it was also the same one for Castella Mare Di Stabia as mentioned on the step by step directions from Mapquest, our planned route to Positano... Soooo of course we blow by the exit and wind up in Salerno. We then have to double back through Pompei.... after getting lost twice... but the scenery was GREAT.

Soooooo… now we stop to ask this kind looking gentleman (whose seed has since been cursed to this day repeatedly by the now very frustrated Chuck) .. [Ok so he knew she can’t read maps...]
Sooooo this never to be spoken of again BOZZO in Pompei tells us....
”Oh no....you don’t want to go by way of Castella Mare.... too much traffic going to Sorrento... you are better off going back to Salerno and taking the Amalfi Coast road.... it’s shorter”.

(That schmuck!).... he knew that it would be dark soon and this route was one of the most treacherous in Italy; Also much narrower and less marked than our original planned route.
So now having missed the much anticipated sunset over Positano with the Wine and Cheese and olives on our Much desired terrace...

We’re winding our way through the overhanging rocks at 8PM… in the darkest of dark... dodging the Kamakazie’s... o… e... o....e.... LOOK out!!!!! When the now thoroughly up tight Chuck decides it’s time to pass this slow idiot in front, who finally very nicely stops and pulls over. Of course it was not for Chuckie.... It was for that BIG MUTHA BUS coming over the bridge and around the narrow corner.... [Which will not pass the bus very easily let alone a car too]
Soooo… of course the ever impatient Chuck must now attempt to back up with traffic behind him and on a very narrow.... steep.... rocky... dark… mountain road!!! So now it’s Busses 1, Chuck 0.... and the trip continued..... o....e......yawoooie!!!!!.. Yikes!!!!!. (forgot those before)
Now when I say this Road is a Toughie.... WOW!.... it is probably a breathtaking site in the daytime... .but at night..... Unhhh Unh... just lots of O.... E… E...Y...Y....etc.

Finally got to the Hotel Pasitea, which is down a one way, very Narrow Street at the bottom of the hill, to find the best room and view of the whole trip. (Well... Palermo’s View is a Close 2nd)... Then farther down the hill to a very cute little restaurant, where the food and people were wonderful!!!

Met 4 nice ladies from Texas, Chicago etc..... actually Mother, Daughter, Daughter in Law and Friend.... who were having Way too much fun so they rated a place in the coming picture album along with the staff.

Off to bed and then to Wake to the most Breathtaking Morning view of them all.... then Pictures of the every Acrophobic Illy clinging to the Balcony Railing for dear life.... a must have FOTO.... a lovely walk down the hill for Franco Bolli (stamps) so she could get Postal on us... [she needed to mail post cards from Italy to all the relatives] Back up to the car.... Pant.... Pant.... and off (the right way this time) to Pompeii.

The correct route was indeed the better one, Perhaps why the hotels in the area and Mapquest suggest it????.... Only got lost one time trying to find a bank for more Lire and then off to the ruins of Pompeii.

Now here’s the deal.... DO NOT –repeat-- DO NOT EAT AT THE CAR PARK ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE RUINS that says “Entrance to Excavations” !!! [They will comp the $15.00 parking if you eat there) Park, pay the fee…and eat somewhere else!!! The food stinks... the attitude is worse.... it wasted another 1½ hours and caused us to cut the tour of Pompeii short so we could make the Ferry to Palermo.

Pompeii was unbelievable!!! Never realized how big the city was nor how much they have restored.... they even have a Via Mercurio there. Ya Gotta do it.... We may take some more time on the return to Rome.

The mad dash to Napoli was just that.... Getting lost only twice.... The Traffic at Rush hour was horrendous… o....e...y.. y.. y.. y.. y and we could not find how to get into the Port!!! We finally made a “gerare-U” (that’s Italian for U-turn) o.... e..... y... y.... ... e.... Right in front of the cop.... [I’m sure to find the charge for the traffic ticket on the Avis Bill] and finally got into the Port. A rush to get the tickets.... get in line (only got lost here twice.... the ever vigilant Illy going o .... e.. y...yyy....”dont hit those people.... this is the wrong way... go back..... etc.. etc.....” ]

She does carry on sometimes... And… she claims to have found the Ship at last.... we screeched up the ramp.... parked the car… got hustled by the stevedore for the price of a café… (Played dumb tourist and thanked him for his offer which left him scratching his head) Drug the luggage... [She wanted to leave it in the car] up to the cabin.... not bad.... had to go back for her bag for shower stuff.... Hmmmmm.... changed..... and went for dinner.
Whhheeewwww…..

This is already way too long.... it’s 1.30 AM and the eye drooping Illy and Chuck have agreed to cover the Boat Ride, and Sicily after the return to Rome.

Hope y’all are enjoying our trip as much as we are..... Wish you were here..... Perhaps next time.

Ciao 4 Now....
Chuck and the over-tired and now pinching me vigorously, Illy