7:53 AM - Firenze
This will be a short opening note,
It is 14.45 in Florence [8.45PM your time], the wayward American Tourist[s] have landed and the excitement got off to a good start.
The plane was a bit delayed leaving Milan. [No, that’s not the excitement]
Then we got hit by lightning on the way into Florence airport. It must have hit the front door of the “small puddle jumping jet” because they made us go out the back door when we landed.
We must have had one of those angels riding on our wing already.
We are little bit fried ourselves as jet lag has set in and not much sleep on the flight over.
When the brain begins to function better we’ll get back to ya.
Ciao4Now
Chuck & Illy
Tuesday 9.25.2001
12:58 PM - Firenze
The journal has been officially renamed...NOWAT "Notes of a WACKY American Tourist".
Last night we had to crash for a while and then went to get the train tickets for Illy’s little coach ride to Roma. We then went to get lost trying to find a couple of restaurants recommended in a book a friend gave us “Let’s Go Italy - A Budget guide book” Published by the Harvard Student agencies.
Got lost, found the restaurants... not quite, what we had in mind, so got lost some more... and found THE SPOT! Ristorante Dino, location to be advised later [left the info in the room]. Just
a local hole in the wall [we also found out the origin of that quaint term during a walking tour today] and had some outstanding ravioli, tortoloni, the best Prosciutto I’ve had in many a year, and of course, a delightful pitcher of the local Grappa.
Day 2 and the feet are wondering what they got into! First a walking tour around Florence that
had us doubling back all over from Piazza Della Republica, to Ponte Vecchio to Piazza Spozzi, to Villa Medici to the Duomo and lots of fun spots in between. 
After a Short stop at the Bar “I Frattelini” [The Brothers] for a great pannini and local wine, It was off again for more sites.
Then we had to hustle to catch our motor coach tour to Pisa. Got the top front of the double deck bus and a super Kamakazie bus driver. Beautiful countryside, cute guide and a quiet trip, except for Raymond the Kamakazie driver.
The million + 3 scooters of Florence are a riot to watch weaving in and out...
I’m bleeding a little as Illy’s claws tend to dig in every time she saw one carom off the sidewalk and nearly cream the side of the bus.
Got to Pisa without incident, and it took longer to get to the parking lot then to
get back out of town after the tour.
Nothing new in Pisa... Couldn’t get the tower straightened out for them so it still leans, the Cathedral is still under renovation, and the Chotchkie vendors are still ripping off the tourists with leaning coffee mugs, cheesy ceramics and Cheap [but not inexpensive] leather.
Other than that, it was great to step back into time at some of the day’s stops.
Well the Cuban Princess is bugging me to feed her.... [What is it with this woman… I’m Thirsty... My feet hurt... I’m hungry.... Lets go Shopping.... “per favore....Dove’ me Carte Di Credito?”....amazing how she gets the wrong phrases memorized...]
More later, we’re in a cute little internet kiosk around the corner from the hotel and the computer time is running out.
Ciao 4 Now
Chuck and the Hungry Cuban lady
The journal has been officially renamed...NOWAT "Notes of a WACKY American Tourist".
Last night we had to crash for a while and then went to get the train tickets for Illy’s little coach ride to Roma. We then went to get lost trying to find a couple of restaurants recommended in a book a friend gave us “Let’s Go Italy - A Budget guide book” Published by the Harvard Student agencies.
Got lost, found the restaurants... not quite, what we had in mind, so got lost some more... and found THE SPOT! Ristorante Dino, location to be advised later [left the info in the room]. Just
a local hole in the wall [we also found out the origin of that quaint term during a walking tour today] and had some outstanding ravioli, tortoloni, the best Prosciutto I’ve had in many a year, and of course, a delightful pitcher of the local Grappa.Day 2 and the feet are wondering what they got into! First a walking tour around Florence that
had us doubling back all over from Piazza Della Republica, to Ponte Vecchio to Piazza Spozzi, to Villa Medici to the Duomo and lots of fun spots in between. 
After a Short stop at the Bar “I Frattelini” [The Brothers] for a great pannini and local wine, It was off again for more sites.Then we had to hustle to catch our motor coach tour to Pisa. Got the top front of the double deck bus and a super Kamakazie bus driver. Beautiful countryside, cute guide and a quiet trip, except for Raymond the Kamakazie driver.
The million + 3 scooters of Florence are a riot to watch weaving in and out...
I’m bleeding a little as Illy’s claws tend to dig in every time she saw one carom off the sidewalk and nearly cream the side of the bus.
Got to Pisa without incident, and it took longer to get to the parking lot then to
get back out of town after the tour.Nothing new in Pisa... Couldn’t get the tower straightened out for them so it still leans, the Cathedral is still under renovation, and the Chotchkie vendors are still ripping off the tourists with leaning coffee mugs, cheesy ceramics and Cheap [but not inexpensive] leather.
Other than that, it was great to step back into time at some of the day’s stops.
Well the Cuban Princess is bugging me to feed her.... [What is it with this woman… I’m Thirsty... My feet hurt... I’m hungry.... Lets go Shopping.... “per favore....Dove’ me Carte Di Credito?”....amazing how she gets the wrong phrases memorized...]
More later, we’re in a cute little internet kiosk around the corner from the hotel and the computer time is running out.
Ciao 4 Now
Chuck and the Hungry Cuban lady
Wednesday 9.26.2001
2:00 PM- Firenze
Feet don’t Fail ME now!!!!! Was the murmur from Illy’s lips as we climbed the long, steep trek to the top of Piazzalle Michelangelo, near the end of one HELLUVA walking day... but, I get ahead of the day.
Morning found us wondering what happened to the blow dryer... Oooppps Chuck forgot to reverse the adapter and blew the circuit breaker and nearly burned down the hotel.... Not really, just blew the breaker... but it did get the front desk clerk a little nervous...
So... off to see Dave... THE DAVID, that is... and if you never see anything in Europe, ya gotta do
that one. AWESOME!!!
This Michelangelo kid was pretty good!!!
The rest of the art at the Academia was impressive but Dave took the prize, and our breath.
Off to Mercato San Lorenzo for the great leather and silk search. Not much
to speak of but Chuckie did finally get his Leather Italian Fisherman’s hat to replace the one lost in a Hertz rental [yes exactly!] on a recent trip to the west coast, but still no Leather Jacket for the Cuban Lady.
Lunch at a little pizzeria “Antica de Arte" near San Lorenzo. ["Mezzo Mezzo"
food, Fair service, OK price] Cute German tourists flirting with the Cute waiter, who was flirting with the Cute German Tourists, good for a chuckle so they rated a photo.
A quick side trip to Santa Maria Novella, marvelous frescoes and dome art... and of course the ubiquitous Medicci chapel... [those damn Medicci’s are everywhere].
Across the lovely Piazza Santa Maria Novela, [past your hotel Rene’, the Grand Minerva... Classy digs!] and a race to Get photos of Ponte Vecchio with the sun at the right spot..
Then it was a race to Ufizzi Gallery only to find the lines too long to wait.
Soooo….. A quick run through the ground floor of Palazzo Vecchio and out the back door on the way to Zona Santa Croce for the Great Leather Search. Some good stuff, some not so good, but we finally found a factory outlet for a small company, the right stuff and the right sales person.
And… TA DAAA!!!!
THE CUBAN LADY HAS HER ITALIAN LEATHER COAT!!!!
But…not before the long… long… uphill… trek to the Piazzalle Michelangelo [P.M. for future notes] and a run [seriously A real gallop] back to catch the little leather shop before it closed. [have you noticed we seem to RUN everywhere?]
Now of course, we are on the other side of town and guess who thinks she is coming down with a cold????….
Off to the Farmacia for Throat lozenges which the instructions of course are in Italian. Sooo… she misreads the box and takes one like a pill !!!. Only after the run back from P.M. [ain’t spelling it again] does she decide it wasn’t working. Soooo… After I correctly translate the directions does she get it right this time and puts one under her tongue.
To Cab or to walk... Awww Tahellwidit.. We walk....
Then she remembers this cute little shop that had these cute cafecito cups named [get this] “Illy Collection” and of course it’s 7.15 and the shops closes at 7.30....
Soooo… we fly to the store only to find out that ya gotta buy the whole damn set! Now the cup may be cute but $80.00 for a set of cafecito cups we’ll never use just doesn’t cut it... Besides, there will probably be lots of other chotchkie’s that I won’t be able to avoid shipping home [ya really don’t think I’m gonna try and pack this stuff do ya?]
Are you outta breath yet??? We are!!!!
Before the time runs out, forgotten notes from yesterdays trip to Pisa and thereabouts.
On the trek back to the bus Illy spots this really dilapidated house, and says...”My, isn’t that an old building?” to which my only reply could be, “Honey... they’re ALL old buildings!” [After 2060 years they do tend to age a bit] So now Illy has decided that she has found her first Italian “Fixer Upper”. “ Well”, she said, “it DOES have good bones”. We laughed sooo hard...only Illy. [but I guess it’s one of those, “Ya Hadda Been There moments"] What Next??? With her… Ya Never Know!!!
The clock is running out and guess who’s hungry again???
I suppose I’ll have to feed her before she leaves me behind.
Time to get lost again trying to find dinner.
Boy this is fun… Feet don’t fail me now!!!
Ciao 4 Now,
Chuck and the ever-hungry Cuban Lady
Feet don’t Fail ME now!!!!! Was the murmur from Illy’s lips as we climbed the long, steep trek to the top of Piazzalle Michelangelo, near the end of one HELLUVA walking day... but, I get ahead of the day.
Morning found us wondering what happened to the blow dryer... Oooppps Chuck forgot to reverse the adapter and blew the circuit breaker and nearly burned down the hotel.... Not really, just blew the breaker... but it did get the front desk clerk a little nervous...
So... off to see Dave... THE DAVID, that is... and if you never see anything in Europe, ya gotta do
that one. AWESOME!!!This Michelangelo kid was pretty good!!!
The rest of the art at the Academia was impressive but Dave took the prize, and our breath.
Off to Mercato San Lorenzo for the great leather and silk search. Not much
to speak of but Chuckie did finally get his Leather Italian Fisherman’s hat to replace the one lost in a Hertz rental [yes exactly!] on a recent trip to the west coast, but still no Leather Jacket for the Cuban Lady.Lunch at a little pizzeria “Antica de Arte" near San Lorenzo. ["Mezzo Mezzo"
food, Fair service, OK price] Cute German tourists flirting with the Cute waiter, who was flirting with the Cute German Tourists, good for a chuckle so they rated a photo.A quick side trip to Santa Maria Novella, marvelous frescoes and dome art... and of course the ubiquitous Medicci chapel... [those damn Medicci’s are everywhere].
Across the lovely Piazza Santa Maria Novela, [past your hotel Rene’, the Grand Minerva... Classy digs!] and a race to Get photos of Ponte Vecchio with the sun at the right spot..Then it was a race to Ufizzi Gallery only to find the lines too long to wait.
Soooo….. A quick run through the ground floor of Palazzo Vecchio and out the back door on the way to Zona Santa Croce for the Great Leather Search. Some good stuff, some not so good, but we finally found a factory outlet for a small company, the right stuff and the right sales person.
And… TA DAAA!!!!
THE CUBAN LADY HAS HER ITALIAN LEATHER COAT!!!!
But…not before the long… long… uphill… trek to the Piazzalle Michelangelo [P.M. for future notes] and a run [seriously A real gallop] back to catch the little leather shop before it closed. [have you noticed we seem to RUN everywhere?]
Now of course, we are on the other side of town and guess who thinks she is coming down with a cold????….
Off to the Farmacia for Throat lozenges which the instructions of course are in Italian. Sooo… she misreads the box and takes one like a pill !!!. Only after the run back from P.M. [ain’t spelling it again] does she decide it wasn’t working. Soooo… After I correctly translate the directions does she get it right this time and puts one under her tongue.
To Cab or to walk... Awww Tahellwidit.. We walk....
Then she remembers this cute little shop that had these cute cafecito cups named [get this] “Illy Collection” and of course it’s 7.15 and the shops closes at 7.30....
Soooo… we fly to the store only to find out that ya gotta buy the whole damn set! Now the cup may be cute but $80.00 for a set of cafecito cups we’ll never use just doesn’t cut it... Besides, there will probably be lots of other chotchkie’s that I won’t be able to avoid shipping home [ya really don’t think I’m gonna try and pack this stuff do ya?]
Are you outta breath yet??? We are!!!!
Before the time runs out, forgotten notes from yesterdays trip to Pisa and thereabouts.
On the trek back to the bus Illy spots this really dilapidated house, and says...”My, isn’t that an old building?” to which my only reply could be, “Honey... they’re ALL old buildings!” [After 2060 years they do tend to age a bit] So now Illy has decided that she has found her first Italian “Fixer Upper”. “ Well”, she said, “it DOES have good bones”. We laughed sooo hard...only Illy. [but I guess it’s one of those, “Ya Hadda Been There moments"] What Next??? With her… Ya Never Know!!!
The clock is running out and guess who’s hungry again???
I suppose I’ll have to feed her before she leaves me behind.
Time to get lost again trying to find dinner.
Boy this is fun… Feet don’t fail me now!!!
Ciao 4 Now,
Chuck and the ever-hungry Cuban Lady
Friday 9.28.2001
11:07 AM Firenze à ROMA
Finally found a decent Internet kiosk instead of the one at the hotel that was the pits!!! Our story continues as:
… Panting heavily, Illy’s hands close around Chucks throat, murmuring “You Made Me Run 4 city blocks, dragging this baggage through traffic, dodging Kamakazie scooters, For a Train That Doesn’t Leave for 30 MINUTES?!?!?!?”…
But again dear hearts, we are ahead of ourselves....
Wednesday night after the NOWAT Journals, and before she gnawed my arm off, we wandered
over for dinner a couple of blocks off the Piazza della Republica at the Fabulous 5 Amici’s (of which there are only 4 - one was thrown into the Arno river according to rumor) The food was ECELENTE!! And the service Super. We found that they also have 4 other places scattered around Firenze, no wonder... it truly was Wonderful.
Then, a leisurely walk back to the hotel, dodging the Nigerian street
vendors that appear to only come out at night, (Illy gets a kick out of watching them dodge and hide from the Polizia when they come down the street). Illy went ahead to take some cold medication and I stopped in the Delightful cafe next to the hotel to bring up dessert and cafe. (Ann, does Illy code this as sick time for getting the cold in Italy?)
Thursday Morning. After a quick packing job for Roma, we set out to finish our goodbye to Firenze with a stop at the Baptistery of San Giovanni... (Elyse...ya see... they even named a baptistery after our favorite boy!!!) Of course it does not open until 12.30... Soooooo, off to the flea market... ooops... Gran Mercato at Piazza d’IL Porcellino, to look for leather and silk (yeah Rene’, what is it with the leather fetish they have?)
Il Porcellino is a large Brass pig where you put a coin on his tongue and let it fall through the grate below, then rub his nose for good luck. The number of times it takes to fall from his tongue and actually go through the grate is how many years it will take to return to Firenze.
Great news… Chuck will be back next year!!! Which is OK ‘cause… Chuckie LOVES Firenze....
Illy on the other hand may take a little longer (2 years...according to the Pig… Christina, will you be ready by then???... The cute boy at the cafeteria at Il Porcellino promises to wait!!!).
We then wandered over to find the Straw Tower, so named because, once as a women’s prison during the Renaissance, all they had to sleep on was straw. There is also a story told by an Art
Graduate from USC at Berkley turned Italian tour guide, engaged to a cute Florentine, (Christina There IS hope!!) about the wife of a previous owner who was buried alive by mistake. When she woke up and climbed out of the tomb, the only one she could convince that she was not a ghost was her former true love (not her Husband or father, who had sent her away.) The Clergy decided that since neither her husband nor father would recognize her and since she had been already declared dead, she was free to marry her first true love... (All together now... AAAWWWWWWWWWW) and they lived happily ever after. Legend had it that after that, anyone buried in Firenze had little bells put in their hands just in case...
The Guide swears it’s true but after hearing several other guides at the same site who did not recall the story.... one wonders.
Off to the Fruti Vendolo for Wine, Cheese, Olives and Bread for the Train to Roma.
A Quick stop at the now opened Baptistery of San Giovanni, one last stroll around the area for a quick pannini at the Rose Cafe in the Piazza di Unita Italiana and then a race back to the hotel for the luggage.... culminating with the mad dash to the Stazione Santa Maria Novella and Illy’s hands wrapped around my throat (Rather Tightly I might add), just a tad bit upset that we raced to a train that was late.
A lemon Gellato calmed her down until she learned the train was 45 minutes late from Milano. We boarded the train and she promptly fell asleep (the cold was really getting a grip on her now) so I drank the wine my self!! (Not really... saving it and the olives for Sunset in Positano on Sunday)
Upon arrival in Roma... now 1½ hours late, the now very refreshed and ever vigilant Illy notices that the cab we jumped into had no meter. The guy tried to hustle us for £50,000 ($25.00) for what turned out to be a £9,300 ($4.80) ride to the hotel.
“Firme Qui”
I shouted as he came to a screeching halt and we sprang from the cab to dig our luggage out of the back and find a REAL Radio cab. (Of course you know she had to remind me “I’m Always Saving you Money, Honey!!”)
And of course in his excitement, Chuck gives the real cab Driver the wrong address in Italian and we had to do one of Illy’s famous U-turns to get back to the hotel
5 minutes from the Train Station. We are already 2 hours late and missed meeting up with the Italian Waiter [that Chuck Met Online who was looking for a job in America] who was to be our partial guide for a few days, so we did a quick change and set out to find his restaurant The Gran Cafe Roma on Via Veneto 6-8 blocks away.
After walking past it one way and then the other.... some one pointed out... “Eccola Qui” (There it is right in front of you) and now after a 8-10 block trek, we collapsed for a cafecito, only to find that:
“Gabriele no sta qui oggi, veni Domani!”
(He was off!!) So we had a quick pasta, a carafe of wine (to doctor Illy’s cold… of course) a cafe and dessert (the place wasn’t all that great.... Where were the 5 Amici’s when your really needed them!?!).
We’ll catch up with Gabriele later.
A slow trek back to the hotel and while Illy slept I tried to work on the cheesy Internet set up at the hotel...
After finding it rebooted every 5 or 6 minutes and would not find the Yahoo website half of the time, I decided to wait until today to find this delightful little internet kiosk across from St Peter’s Cathedral after an exhausting Roman monument tour... Which is the subject of tomorrow’s journal...
Illy is tired, and we had to write this twice. The first version got totally erased as I finger flopped on this European keyboard with the strange key placements.
Ciao 4 Now....
From the not so nimble fingered Chuck and the Droopy Eyed Cuban Lady.
Finally found a decent Internet kiosk instead of the one at the hotel that was the pits!!! Our story continues as:
… Panting heavily, Illy’s hands close around Chucks throat, murmuring “You Made Me Run 4 city blocks, dragging this baggage through traffic, dodging Kamakazie scooters, For a Train That Doesn’t Leave for 30 MINUTES?!?!?!?”…
But again dear hearts, we are ahead of ourselves....
Wednesday night after the NOWAT Journals, and before she gnawed my arm off, we wandered
over for dinner a couple of blocks off the Piazza della Republica at the Fabulous 5 Amici’s (of which there are only 4 - one was thrown into the Arno river according to rumor) The food was ECELENTE!! And the service Super. We found that they also have 4 other places scattered around Firenze, no wonder... it truly was Wonderful.Then, a leisurely walk back to the hotel, dodging the Nigerian street
vendors that appear to only come out at night, (Illy gets a kick out of watching them dodge and hide from the Polizia when they come down the street). Illy went ahead to take some cold medication and I stopped in the Delightful cafe next to the hotel to bring up dessert and cafe. (Ann, does Illy code this as sick time for getting the cold in Italy?)Thursday Morning. After a quick packing job for Roma, we set out to finish our goodbye to Firenze with a stop at the Baptistery of San Giovanni... (Elyse...ya see... they even named a baptistery after our favorite boy!!!) Of course it does not open until 12.30... Soooooo, off to the flea market... ooops... Gran Mercato at Piazza d’IL Porcellino, to look for leather and silk (yeah Rene’, what is it with the leather fetish they have?)
Il Porcellino is a large Brass pig where you put a coin on his tongue and let it fall through the grate below, then rub his nose for good luck. The number of times it takes to fall from his tongue and actually go through the grate is how many years it will take to return to Firenze.
Great news… Chuck will be back next year!!! Which is OK ‘cause… Chuckie LOVES Firenze....
Illy on the other hand may take a little longer (2 years...according to the Pig… Christina, will you be ready by then???... The cute boy at the cafeteria at Il Porcellino promises to wait!!!).
We then wandered over to find the Straw Tower, so named because, once as a women’s prison during the Renaissance, all they had to sleep on was straw. There is also a story told by an Art
Graduate from USC at Berkley turned Italian tour guide, engaged to a cute Florentine, (Christina There IS hope!!) about the wife of a previous owner who was buried alive by mistake. When she woke up and climbed out of the tomb, the only one she could convince that she was not a ghost was her former true love (not her Husband or father, who had sent her away.) The Clergy decided that since neither her husband nor father would recognize her and since she had been already declared dead, she was free to marry her first true love... (All together now... AAAWWWWWWWWWW) and they lived happily ever after. Legend had it that after that, anyone buried in Firenze had little bells put in their hands just in case...The Guide swears it’s true but after hearing several other guides at the same site who did not recall the story.... one wonders.
Off to the Fruti Vendolo for Wine, Cheese, Olives and Bread for the Train to Roma.
A Quick stop at the now opened Baptistery of San Giovanni, one last stroll around the area for a quick pannini at the Rose Cafe in the Piazza di Unita Italiana and then a race back to the hotel for the luggage.... culminating with the mad dash to the Stazione Santa Maria Novella and Illy’s hands wrapped around my throat (Rather Tightly I might add), just a tad bit upset that we raced to a train that was late.
A lemon Gellato calmed her down until she learned the train was 45 minutes late from Milano. We boarded the train and she promptly fell asleep (the cold was really getting a grip on her now) so I drank the wine my self!! (Not really... saving it and the olives for Sunset in Positano on Sunday)
Upon arrival in Roma... now 1½ hours late, the now very refreshed and ever vigilant Illy notices that the cab we jumped into had no meter. The guy tried to hustle us for £50,000 ($25.00) for what turned out to be a £9,300 ($4.80) ride to the hotel.
“Firme Qui”
I shouted as he came to a screeching halt and we sprang from the cab to dig our luggage out of the back and find a REAL Radio cab. (Of course you know she had to remind me “I’m Always Saving you Money, Honey!!”)
And of course in his excitement, Chuck gives the real cab Driver the wrong address in Italian and we had to do one of Illy’s famous U-turns to get back to the hotel
5 minutes from the Train Station. We are already 2 hours late and missed meeting up with the Italian Waiter [that Chuck Met Online who was looking for a job in America] who was to be our partial guide for a few days, so we did a quick change and set out to find his restaurant The Gran Cafe Roma on Via Veneto 6-8 blocks away.
After walking past it one way and then the other.... some one pointed out... “Eccola Qui” (There it is right in front of you) and now after a 8-10 block trek, we collapsed for a cafecito, only to find that:
“Gabriele no sta qui oggi, veni Domani!”
(He was off!!) So we had a quick pasta, a carafe of wine (to doctor Illy’s cold… of course) a cafe and dessert (the place wasn’t all that great.... Where were the 5 Amici’s when your really needed them!?!).
We’ll catch up with Gabriele later.
A slow trek back to the hotel and while Illy slept I tried to work on the cheesy Internet set up at the hotel...
After finding it rebooted every 5 or 6 minutes and would not find the Yahoo website half of the time, I decided to wait until today to find this delightful little internet kiosk across from St Peter’s Cathedral after an exhausting Roman monument tour... Which is the subject of tomorrow’s journal...
Illy is tired, and we had to write this twice. The first version got totally erased as I finger flopped on this European keyboard with the strange key placements.
Ciao 4 Now....
From the not so nimble fingered Chuck and the Droopy Eyed Cuban Lady.
Sun 9.30.2001
4:55 PM - POSITANO
Have had trouble getting a decent Internet point.
Just arrived in Positano.... at night.... along the Amalfi Coast... along the zig zag... up and down... side by side... ever narrowing road... dug out of the mountain side overlooking deep chasms.... and the Adriatic Sea... (the ever paranoid Cuban Lady has already kicked a hole in the passenger side floorboard where the extra brake should be for side seat drivers...)
This bloody road makes the California Pacific Coast Highway look like a cruise along Biscayne Blvd!!!
When we get to Palermo.... we should have a chance to get the Journals caught up. (The nice man at the Hotel Pasitea here in Positano allowed us to use the office computer to check email and get this out.
More later....
Ciao4Now
Chuck and the Dribble nosed but slowly recovering Cuban Lady.
Have had trouble getting a decent Internet point.
Just arrived in Positano.... at night.... along the Amalfi Coast... along the zig zag... up and down... side by side... ever narrowing road... dug out of the mountain side overlooking deep chasms.... and the Adriatic Sea... (the ever paranoid Cuban Lady has already kicked a hole in the passenger side floorboard where the extra brake should be for side seat drivers...)
This bloody road makes the California Pacific Coast Highway look like a cruise along Biscayne Blvd!!!
When we get to Palermo.... we should have a chance to get the Journals caught up. (The nice man at the Hotel Pasitea here in Positano allowed us to use the office computer to check email and get this out.
More later....
Ciao4Now
Chuck and the Dribble nosed but slowly recovering Cuban Lady.
Tue 10.2.201 Quick NOTE
PALERMO
Quick NOTE
We just got to Palermo, its 8.30AM here now and the View of the City below is INCREDIBLE!!! They have a web cam on the roof of the hotel and you can see what we see from our balcony. I’m attempting to get a big poster or something to put on the right corner of the roof in front of the camera with a big "HI". With any luck I’ll get it up sometime today and hopefully they will leave it up till tomorrow.
{Chucky Note: since this was first written in 2001, the link to webcam view had since been passord Protected and besides... the sign is long gone}
NOWAT journals will continue this evening with a roundup of all of the Rome Highlights, the trip to Positano (unbelievable), Awesome Pompei, the Boat trip to Sicily, and Day one in Sicily...
The ever impatient Illy is anxious to get me to Termini Imerese, the soil of my ancestors so....
Ciao for now.
Chuck and the Antsy (and still recovering) Cuban Lady
Quick NOTE
We just got to Palermo, its 8.30AM here now and the View of the City below is INCREDIBLE!!! They have a web cam on the roof of the hotel and you can see what we see from our balcony. I’m attempting to get a big poster or something to put on the right corner of the roof in front of the camera with a big "HI". With any luck I’ll get it up sometime today and hopefully they will leave it up till tomorrow.
{Chucky Note: since this was first written in 2001, the link to webcam view had since been passord Protected and besides... the sign is long gone}
NOWAT journals will continue this evening with a roundup of all of the Rome Highlights, the trip to Positano (unbelievable), Awesome Pompei, the Boat trip to Sicily, and Day one in Sicily...
The ever impatient Illy is anxious to get me to Termini Imerese, the soil of my ancestors so....
Ciao for now.
Chuck and the Antsy (and still recovering) Cuban Lady
TUESDAY 10.2.2001
Rome to Palermo with stops inbetween
Now.... The Score is about to be Lions and Centurions 2.... Chuckie 0, as Chuck is accosted by two Roman Soldiers, circa 45 B.C. [film at Eleven... or pictures to follow on our return]
Having been chased out of the Forum by the guard at closing, we grabbed a cab to our hotel to change for dinner at the “Il Pancrazio” [recommended by frequent traveler friends] which is built on top of the Teatro Di Pompei near the Piazza Fiore.
For those who remember their history, it was in the Curia outside the
Teatro di Pompei where Julius Cesar was Knifed in the 
back by Brutus and Cassius. (The Teatro was patterned after the one in Pompeii and the Curia was built adjacent to it so that the Roman Senate could conduct business without leaving the Teatro… [typical self serving politicians!]
Great dinner, and a quick look at the ruins below... then off in the rain to see Piazza Venetia.
A quick pack the night before made the exit from the hotel easy the next morning and then a brisk walk to the train station for our Alfa Romeo 156. Good thing we got there early.... it took 1¼ hours to get through the line. (Hmmmm only one clerk on Sunday). A short walk to the garage and the car is delivered. Then a quick stop at the Hotel ScottHouse for a reservation for the return to Rome on the 4th (in a little seedy area near the train station, because we need to catch the earliest train to the airport and don’t want to walk too far that early) .
Then it was off to Positano... but first... the not so clear thinking Chuck (too much coffee the
night before + 2 Lemoncello’s= little sleep) decides they forgot to see Tivoli!!!! Hey... this should be quick... (yeah, right…) the trip was..... the 
lunch before going into the Villa Este & Gardens was NOT. It was a somewhat wasted hour plus for a marginal Pizza served with serious lybad attitude. Tivoli Gardens lovely.... fountains unbelievable.... walk exhausting... more great pictures and it was Finally, off to Positano.
Now.... between the OOOooffffs and EEEEkkkksss.. and EEEEgaddsss (hereafter O...E... will signify her ooooofffing and Eeeeeking and Egadding all the way) these drivers really get to her and by now she has a hole in the floorboard on the passengers side where her brake was supposed to have been installed, The ever lovely and detailed Illy is going to navigate between o....e’s.... However.... map reading 101 was not on her last class schedule, especially not in Italian!!! In addition, the exit sign for Napoli from the Autostrada did not say that it was also the same one for Castella Mare Di Stabia as mentioned on the step by step directions from Mapquest, our planned route to Positano... Soooo of course we blow by the exit and wind up in Salerno. We then have to double back through Pompei.... after getting lost twice... but the scenery was GREAT.
Ciao from Sicily!!!!
This will be very involved, as we must refer to notes. And… of course, the ever tiring Illy took a nap and left her glasses on the bed, hidden from the ever frustrated Chuck who was trying to get a file sent via long distance, and who sat on her glasses breaking off the left temple...
While a minor disaster, this could be a blessing in disguise.... at least it may keep her from seeing too much as we drive along the congested and insane streets of Italy and from going “OOOFFFF” and EEEEKKK as we dodge the Kamikazie scooters and Italian multi lane users. (Well, actually there are no lanes.... usually 6 abreast at any stop light... what little of those that are obeyed) and STOP signs must mean, “roll through at 30 MPH” in Italian.
This will be very involved, as we must refer to notes. And… of course, the ever tiring Illy took a nap and left her glasses on the bed, hidden from the ever frustrated Chuck who was trying to get a file sent via long distance, and who sat on her glasses breaking off the left temple...
While a minor disaster, this could be a blessing in disguise.... at least it may keep her from seeing too much as we drive along the congested and insane streets of Italy and from going “OOOFFFF” and EEEEKKK as we dodge the Kamikazie scooters and Italian multi lane users. (Well, actually there are no lanes.... usually 6 abreast at any stop light... what little of those that are obeyed) and STOP signs must mean, “roll through at 30 MPH” in Italian.
But as usual... I’m ahead of the story.
Today’s journal starts with the beginning of our Monument tour of Rome on Friday. We were picked up by a cute little trolley and deposited at the Tour 
office where we waited for the bus to take us around to see: the Pantheon, Trevi fountain, Piazza Navona, some other Big building with lots of pillars (we were rushed through these so fast that I only remember that half of the original Piazza and portico were under the shops across the square from it).
The tour ended with the Vatican. This only took us to Noon on Friday. Our Guide, Luciano who claims to have been there when the Pantheon was finished in 25 B.C. (and he looks it too) was fun, but way too quick through the stops. He was very emotional about St Peters Cathedral, but in all... not what we expected... perhaps the reason why we did not book many tours and did most of it on our own.
After Luciano concluded, we stayed at the Vatican and took the Museo Vaticani tour with the intention of breezing through the Sistine Chapel and heading out to see more of Rome...
WRONNNGGGG!!!!!
One does not “breeze” through the Vatican Museum. For those of you who have made this trek.... you will remember that they take you through miles.... and miles... and MILES of art...
sculptures.... and tapestry.... and rooms.... and maps.... and up.... and down... Across.... around and back... (I just got winded remembering) and more maps... and more rooms...and more tapestry.... until finally you get to the chapel....
Now, everywhere else you can take non-flash photos.... but in the Chapel “NO FOTO!!!!” Screams the little “Napoleonic like Guarda”... NO FOTO!!!! Well.... have you ever known Chuckie to follow ALL the rules???? OK…. so now the ever paranoid Illy is backing away from him and pretending that she never saw him before in her life.... as the Guard Glares at Chuck.... “NO FOTO!!!!!” (Yeah, right... Click....) Of course
we had used up all the 800 ASA Super fast film in Firenze and all we had was 400 ASA , so we’ll see what comes out. All in all, the trek was well worth it, as any one who has seen it first hand can attest.... all the “FOTOS” in the books will never do it the justice of personal observation. [ed. Note: some Fotos actually did come out good]
So now we try to find our way out.... after miles... and miles... and… ok you get it....
We wander into a cute little bar for a quick “spuntino” (“snack” to youse guys).... and then off to find the Metro to get to the Spanish Steps before the American Express Closes for a quick currency exchange. (But first we stopped at the internet kiosk to write the Journal of Sept 30 wherein we recounted the last day of Firenze and the Train Trip) in case you forgot.
So, after the frustrating rewrite [after losing the first version due to the not so nimble fingered Chuck and the Foreign keyboard] we dash off to find the Metro when the somewhat irritated but still ever vigilant Illy says...
”Where’s your new hat?!?!?”
”Oopppppsssss” I said, "Didn’t I have it at the Internet Kiosk?.... No Wait... must have left it on the Chair at lunch...."
Ssooooo.... [40 feet from the Metro.... 6 blocks from the Restaurant] we head back (The ever breathless Illy swears “at a gallop”) getting lost twice along the way, to retrieve the hat.
Lovely Cashier lady says....”AHHHH IL Capello.... Here it is” (all in Italian of course.....)
Soooooo.... now with hat firmly on head, and an increasingly breathless Cuban Lady Glaring at me... we go to find the Metro to get to the Spanish Steps and the.... by now closed... AMEX office. The Metro ride was uneventful. All reports of its usefulness are correct.... Cheap and quick around town.
Upon arrival at the Steps, we just had to climb to the middle to look out upon.... not much.... a bunch of kids... and lovers… and old folks just sitting on the steps.... looking at all the... kids... lovers and old folks... who were... ok you get it.
Soooo The now panting Illy says.. “We gotta go see the shops and the Amex office,” (which of course was indeed closed). After a quick stop for some more “over priced” KODAK.... we decide its time to go find Gabriele (you remember… the little waiter who was to be our guide) so of course we have to climb the steps again, ’cause that’s the way back to Via Veneto.... (Supposedly quicker than backtracking to the Metro... which stops right there in Piazza Barberini.) But Hey… we need to walk off all this pasta.
Now we head up the steps (“Are we there yet?” She whimpers half way up.... and “Pant....pant.... pant, are we near the top?”.... And push... push... push to get her the rest of the way....
”But Honey.... look at the lovely view that you wanted to see from here,” I offered....
”Shut up and keep walking”, the ever tired Illy Barks...”and Feed ME!!!”
On the way to Via Veneto... the best one liner to come from a local was when we passed this little restaurant and overheard the Proprietor saying to an obvious tourist...
”But you see....My Pizza is not BUBBLE Gum like in America!!!” “You don’t have to Chew...Chew....Chew!!!”
Now ya gotta picture this, we’re tired… cranky… and just plain numb and from outta nowhere comes this one liner…
I thought for sure that Illy (and I) were going to LOSE IT right there on the spot... It was hilarious to see the look on the tourist face as the owner insisted it was not Bubble Gum.... I gave the owner a High Five (which he understood) and thanked him for the best laugh of the trip so far. (all in Italian of course)... Getting pretty good at this Lingo here.
Upon arrival at the Gran Cafe Roma, we finally meet up with Gabriele who tells us that he had the day off yesterday with his car at ready to take us around... (unfortunately if you recall....late trains....etc... kept that from happening) Soooooo… after a couple of Coffees, Gabriele agrees to pick us up at the hotel Saturday in the morning because he can drive his car into the City on the Weekend. (If you don’t live in the City center.... you can’t drive a car in on the weekdays)
A quick walk back to the hotel.... past the American Embassy (very heavily guarded on all corners and entrances by the Carbinieri) past the famous Chica Chica Boom Night club... (never did get in there to find out what all the limos were about) past Hard Rock Cafe and on to a cute little Neapolitan Restaurant around the corner from the hotel..... Had a lovely meal, good wine and then off to bed.
The next day started with the Desk clerk telling Gabriele that we had already left.... But we caught him just outside before he could get away. The day was his choice and it was a
wonderful one... Castel Gondolfo, the home of the Pope when he is not in the 
Vatican. A delightful and quaint little village on a steep hill top [that was a strategic military spot during WW II] adjacent to his Palazzo with a beautiful church in the square.... Where… (It’s Saturday) and there is a Wedding about to begin.... (Those who know “Caterer” Chuck.... know that he can never resist a Bride.... Sooooooo… pictures all around as well as the interior of the church, simply gorgeous and the Bride was stunning...)
Ohhhhhhh… Illy hastens to remind us.... the climb up was very exhausting... and the walk back even trickier... the cobble stone are a bit slippery. (Some may remember that a few years back, Illy fell down all over San Francisco.... now Chuckie trips all over Italy)
After our erstwhile guide gets a little lost on the way back (The locals do that too) he takes us to one of his former places of employment. A charming little restaurant where there where kisses all around when he entered, and which had the Greatest Bufala Mozzarella I have ever had! By now it was getting late and he had to get to work, so we had him drop us off at the Stazione Termini to check on our car for the next day.
After that it was off to see the Coloseo. While searching for the right metro... and not being able to get tickets from the machine.... Chuckie searches for a ticket kiosk and is greeted by a very affable gentleman who proceeds to hustle the ever “Gullible Chuck” out of £1,200 for a bogus Bus ticket, which, Chuck proceeds to convince the Bus Driver that it was good for the trip to the Coloseo. The lovely British Passenger next to us properly translated the ticket and giggled that we got away with it. We promptly jumped off the bus at the Coloseo and hustled to the entrance before the driver got the wiser.
Today’s journal starts with the beginning of our Monument tour of Rome on Friday. We were picked up by a cute little trolley and deposited at the Tour 
office where we waited for the bus to take us around to see: the Pantheon, Trevi fountain, Piazza Navona, some other Big building with lots of pillars (we were rushed through these so fast that I only remember that half of the original Piazza and portico were under the shops across the square from it).
The tour ended with the Vatican. This only took us to Noon on Friday. Our Guide, Luciano who claims to have been there when the Pantheon was finished in 25 B.C. (and he looks it too) was fun, but way too quick through the stops. He was very emotional about St Peters Cathedral, but in all... not what we expected... perhaps the reason why we did not book many tours and did most of it on our own.After Luciano concluded, we stayed at the Vatican and took the Museo Vaticani tour with the intention of breezing through the Sistine Chapel and heading out to see more of Rome...
WRONNNGGGG!!!!!
One does not “breeze” through the Vatican Museum. For those of you who have made this trek.... you will remember that they take you through miles.... and miles... and MILES of art...
sculptures.... and tapestry.... and rooms.... and maps.... and up.... and down... Across.... around and back... (I just got winded remembering) and more maps... and more rooms...and more tapestry.... until finally you get to the chapel....Now, everywhere else you can take non-flash photos.... but in the Chapel “NO FOTO!!!!” Screams the little “Napoleonic like Guarda”... NO FOTO!!!! Well.... have you ever known Chuckie to follow ALL the rules???? OK…. so now the ever paranoid Illy is backing away from him and pretending that she never saw him before in her life.... as the Guard Glares at Chuck.... “NO FOTO!!!!!” (Yeah, right... Click....) Of course
we had used up all the 800 ASA Super fast film in Firenze and all we had was 400 ASA , so we’ll see what comes out. All in all, the trek was well worth it, as any one who has seen it first hand can attest.... all the “FOTOS” in the books will never do it the justice of personal observation. [ed. Note: some Fotos actually did come out good]So now we try to find our way out.... after miles... and miles... and… ok you get it....
We wander into a cute little bar for a quick “spuntino” (“snack” to youse guys).... and then off to find the Metro to get to the Spanish Steps before the American Express Closes for a quick currency exchange. (But first we stopped at the internet kiosk to write the Journal of Sept 30 wherein we recounted the last day of Firenze and the Train Trip) in case you forgot.
So, after the frustrating rewrite [after losing the first version due to the not so nimble fingered Chuck and the Foreign keyboard] we dash off to find the Metro when the somewhat irritated but still ever vigilant Illy says...
”Where’s your new hat?!?!?”
”Oopppppsssss” I said, "Didn’t I have it at the Internet Kiosk?.... No Wait... must have left it on the Chair at lunch...."
Ssooooo.... [40 feet from the Metro.... 6 blocks from the Restaurant] we head back (The ever breathless Illy swears “at a gallop”) getting lost twice along the way, to retrieve the hat.
Lovely Cashier lady says....”AHHHH IL Capello.... Here it is” (all in Italian of course.....)
Soooooo.... now with hat firmly on head, and an increasingly breathless Cuban Lady Glaring at me... we go to find the Metro to get to the Spanish Steps and the.... by now closed... AMEX office. The Metro ride was uneventful. All reports of its usefulness are correct.... Cheap and quick around town.
Upon arrival at the Steps, we just had to climb to the middle to look out upon.... not much.... a bunch of kids... and lovers… and old folks just sitting on the steps.... looking at all the... kids... lovers and old folks... who were... ok you get it.
Soooo The now panting Illy says.. “We gotta go see the shops and the Amex office,” (which of course was indeed closed). After a quick stop for some more “over priced” KODAK.... we decide its time to go find Gabriele (you remember… the little waiter who was to be our guide) so of course we have to climb the steps again, ’cause that’s the way back to Via Veneto.... (Supposedly quicker than backtracking to the Metro... which stops right there in Piazza Barberini.) But Hey… we need to walk off all this pasta.
Now we head up the steps (“Are we there yet?” She whimpers half way up.... and “Pant....pant.... pant, are we near the top?”.... And push... push... push to get her the rest of the way....
”But Honey.... look at the lovely view that you wanted to see from here,” I offered....
”Shut up and keep walking”, the ever tired Illy Barks...”and Feed ME!!!”
On the way to Via Veneto... the best one liner to come from a local was when we passed this little restaurant and overheard the Proprietor saying to an obvious tourist...
”But you see....My Pizza is not BUBBLE Gum like in America!!!” “You don’t have to Chew...Chew....Chew!!!”
Now ya gotta picture this, we’re tired… cranky… and just plain numb and from outta nowhere comes this one liner…
I thought for sure that Illy (and I) were going to LOSE IT right there on the spot... It was hilarious to see the look on the tourist face as the owner insisted it was not Bubble Gum.... I gave the owner a High Five (which he understood) and thanked him for the best laugh of the trip so far. (all in Italian of course)... Getting pretty good at this Lingo here.
Upon arrival at the Gran Cafe Roma, we finally meet up with Gabriele who tells us that he had the day off yesterday with his car at ready to take us around... (unfortunately if you recall....late trains....etc... kept that from happening) Soooooo… after a couple of Coffees, Gabriele agrees to pick us up at the hotel Saturday in the morning because he can drive his car into the City on the Weekend. (If you don’t live in the City center.... you can’t drive a car in on the weekdays)
A quick walk back to the hotel.... past the American Embassy (very heavily guarded on all corners and entrances by the Carbinieri) past the famous Chica Chica Boom Night club... (never did get in there to find out what all the limos were about) past Hard Rock Cafe and on to a cute little Neapolitan Restaurant around the corner from the hotel..... Had a lovely meal, good wine and then off to bed.
The next day started with the Desk clerk telling Gabriele that we had already left.... But we caught him just outside before he could get away. The day was his choice and it was a
wonderful one... Castel Gondolfo, the home of the Pope when he is not in the 
Vatican. A delightful and quaint little village on a steep hill top [that was a strategic military spot during WW II] adjacent to his Palazzo with a beautiful church in the square.... Where… (It’s Saturday) and there is a Wedding about to begin.... (Those who know “Caterer” Chuck.... know that he can never resist a Bride.... Sooooooo… pictures all around as well as the interior of the church, simply gorgeous and the Bride was stunning...)Ohhhhhhh… Illy hastens to remind us.... the climb up was very exhausting... and the walk back even trickier... the cobble stone are a bit slippery. (Some may remember that a few years back, Illy fell down all over San Francisco.... now Chuckie trips all over Italy)
After our erstwhile guide gets a little lost on the way back (The locals do that too) he takes us to one of his former places of employment. A charming little restaurant where there where kisses all around when he entered, and which had the Greatest Bufala Mozzarella I have ever had! By now it was getting late and he had to get to work, so we had him drop us off at the Stazione Termini to check on our car for the next day.
After that it was off to see the Coloseo. While searching for the right metro... and not being able to get tickets from the machine.... Chuckie searches for a ticket kiosk and is greeted by a very affable gentleman who proceeds to hustle the ever “Gullible Chuck” out of £1,200 for a bogus Bus ticket, which, Chuck proceeds to convince the Bus Driver that it was good for the trip to the Coloseo. The lovely British Passenger next to us properly translated the ticket and giggled that we got away with it. We promptly jumped off the bus at the Coloseo and hustled to the entrance before the driver got the wiser.
Now.... The Score is about to be Lions and Centurions 2.... Chuckie 0, as Chuck is accosted by two Roman Soldiers, circa 45 B.C. [film at Eleven... or pictures to follow on our return]
(NOTE: Doug Sidewand.... your Coloseo Sky Box has been officially reserved... Logia ix, Level xxxii.... see Quintus Maximus xii for more information. p.s. The Lions renegotiated their contract and will stay 2 more years)
If you haven’t done the Coloseo.... Ya Gotta!!! Truly Unbelievable!!!... [They have actually restored part of the ground level where the games took place to give you a sense of what it was like in 50 BC.]
From there, we trekked up the Piazza to the Palintine area and the Roman Forum for some pretty nice pictures at dusk...
From there, we trekked up the Piazza to the Palintine area and the Roman Forum for some pretty nice pictures at dusk...
Having been chased out of the Forum by the guard at closing, we grabbed a cab to our hotel to change for dinner at the “Il Pancrazio” [recommended by frequent traveler friends] which is built on top of the Teatro Di Pompei near the Piazza Fiore.For those who remember their history, it was in the Curia outside the
Teatro di Pompei where Julius Cesar was Knifed in the 
back by Brutus and Cassius. (The Teatro was patterned after the one in Pompeii and the Curia was built adjacent to it so that the Roman Senate could conduct business without leaving the Teatro… [typical self serving politicians!]Great dinner, and a quick look at the ruins below... then off in the rain to see Piazza Venetia.
Thank Heavens for the ever-present Nigerian street vendors who provided a little “Ombrello”
for the princely sum of £10,000. [$5.00] Cheap at twice the price.
The walk ended some 8 blocks later only to find that you can never get into the Piazza Venezia... even in the Day time. [according to a local found near there] It is a Military establishment and home to the Tomb of the Italian Unknown Soldier... but the pictures at night should be great. [Ed. Note: The pics came out GREAT! And… the Hooker was wrong… see notes further below.]
Short cab ride back to the Gran Cafe Roma for a Quick coffee, and
goodbye to Gabriele.... And the picture we forgot to take earlier that day [as he blew a Kiss to Christina]. It would have been great with his cute lavender Leather Pants, Turtle Neck Sweater and Gucci Shades [Christina... TO DIE FOR.... but sadly, taken... the wedding is on New Years Eve in Washington D.C.]
And the now the Daring Illy is introduced to, not one but TWO Lemoncello’s (that wonderful, and powerful Lemon liqueur from Positano). Kisses and Ciao’s all around and we’re off to the hotel.
Are you out of breath yet.... we were...
for the princely sum of £10,000. [$5.00] Cheap at twice the price.The walk ended some 8 blocks later only to find that you can never get into the Piazza Venezia... even in the Day time. [according to a local found near there] It is a Military establishment and home to the Tomb of the Italian Unknown Soldier... but the pictures at night should be great. [Ed. Note: The pics came out GREAT! And… the Hooker was wrong… see notes further below.]
Short cab ride back to the Gran Cafe Roma for a Quick coffee, and
goodbye to Gabriele.... And the picture we forgot to take earlier that day [as he blew a Kiss to Christina]. It would have been great with his cute lavender Leather Pants, Turtle Neck Sweater and Gucci Shades [Christina... TO DIE FOR.... but sadly, taken... the wedding is on New Years Eve in Washington D.C.]And the now the Daring Illy is introduced to, not one but TWO Lemoncello’s (that wonderful, and powerful Lemon liqueur from Positano). Kisses and Ciao’s all around and we’re off to the hotel.
Are you out of breath yet.... we were...
A quick pack the night before made the exit from the hotel easy the next morning and then a brisk walk to the train station for our Alfa Romeo 156. Good thing we got there early.... it took 1¼ hours to get through the line. (Hmmmm only one clerk on Sunday). A short walk to the garage and the car is delivered. Then a quick stop at the Hotel ScottHouse for a reservation for the return to Rome on the 4th (in a little seedy area near the train station, because we need to catch the earliest train to the airport and don’t want to walk too far that early) .
Then it was off to Positano... but first... the not so clear thinking Chuck (too much coffee the
night before + 2 Lemoncello’s= little sleep) decides they forgot to see Tivoli!!!! Hey... this should be quick... (yeah, right…) the trip was..... the 
lunch before going into the Villa Este & Gardens was NOT. It was a somewhat wasted hour plus for a marginal Pizza served with serious lybad attitude. Tivoli Gardens lovely.... fountains unbelievable.... walk exhausting... more great pictures and it was Finally, off to Positano.Now.... between the OOOooffffs and EEEEkkkksss.. and EEEEgaddsss (hereafter O...E... will signify her ooooofffing and Eeeeeking and Egadding all the way) these drivers really get to her and by now she has a hole in the floorboard on the passengers side where her brake was supposed to have been installed, The ever lovely and detailed Illy is going to navigate between o....e’s.... However.... map reading 101 was not on her last class schedule, especially not in Italian!!! In addition, the exit sign for Napoli from the Autostrada did not say that it was also the same one for Castella Mare Di Stabia as mentioned on the step by step directions from Mapquest, our planned route to Positano... Soooo of course we blow by the exit and wind up in Salerno. We then have to double back through Pompei.... after getting lost twice... but the scenery was GREAT.
Soooooo… now we stop to ask this kind looking gentleman (whose seed has since been cursed to this day repeatedly by the now very frustrated Chuck) .. [Ok so he knew she can’t read maps...]
Sooooo this never to be spoken of again BOZZO in Pompei tells us....
”Oh no....you don’t want to go by way of Castella Mare.... too much traffic going to Sorrento... you are better off going back to Salerno and taking the Amalfi Coast road.... it’s shorter”.
(That schmuck!).... he knew that it would be dark soon and this route was one of the most treacherous in Italy; Also much narrower and less marked than our original planned route.
So now having missed the much anticipated sunset over Positano with the Wine and Cheese and olives on our Much desired terrace...
We’re winding our way through the overhanging rocks at 8PM… in the darkest of dark... dodging the Kamakazie’s... o… e... o....e.... LOOK out!!!!! When the now thoroughly up tight Chuck decides it’s time to pass this slow idiot in front, who finally very nicely stops and pulls over. Of course it was not for Chuckie.... It was for that BIG MUTHA BUS coming over the bridge and around the narrow corner.... [Which will not pass the bus very easily let alone a car too]
Soooo… of course the ever impatient Chuck must now attempt to back up with traffic behind him and on a very narrow.... steep.... rocky... dark… mountain road!!! So now it’s Busses 1, Chuck 0.... and the trip continued..... o....e......yawoooie!!!!!.. Yikes!!!!!. (forgot those before)
Now when I say this Road is a Toughie.... WOW!.... it is probably a breathtaking site in the daytime... .but at night..... Unhhh Unh... just lots of O.... E… E...Y...Y....etc.
Finally got to the Hotel Pasitea, which is down a one way, very Narrow Street at the bottom of the hill, to find the best room and view of the whole trip. (Well... Palermo’s View is a Close 2nd)... Then farther down the hill to a very cute little restaurant, where the food and people were 
wonderful!!!
Met 4 nice ladies from Texas, Chicago etc..... actually Mother, Daughter, Daughter in Law and Friend.... who were having Way too much fun so they rated a place in the coming picture album along with the staff.
Off to bed and then to Wake to the most Breathtaking Morning view of
them all.... then Pictures of the every Acrophobic Illy clinging to the Balcony Railing for dear life.... a must have FOTO.... a lovely walk down the hill for Franco Bolli (stamps) so she could get Postal on 
us... [she needed to mail post cards from Italy to all the relatives] Back up to the car.... Pant.... Pant.... and off (the right way this time) to Pompeii.
The correct route was indeed the better one, Perhaps why the hotels in the area and Mapquest suggest it????.... Only got lost one time trying to find a bank for more Lire and then off to the ruins of Pompeii.
Now here’s the deal.... DO NOT –repeat-- DO NOT EAT AT THE CAR PARK ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE RUINS that says “Entrance to Excavations” !!! [They will comp the $15.00 parking if you eat there) Park, pay the fee…and eat somewhere else!!! The food stinks... the attitude is worse.... it wasted another 1½ hours and caused us to cut the tour of Pompeii short so we could make the Ferry to Palermo.
Pompeii was unbelievable!!! Never realized how big the city was nor how much they have restored.... they even have a Via Mercurio there. Ya Gotta do it.... We may take some more time on the return to Rome.
The mad dash to Napoli was just that.... Getting lost only twice.... The Traffic at Rush hour was horrendous… o....e...y.. y.. y.. y.. y and we could not find how to get into the Port!!! We finally made a “gerare-U” (that’s Italian for U-turn) o.... e..... y... y.... ... e.... Right in front of the cop.... [I’m sure to find the charge for the traffic ticket on the Avis Bill] and finally got into the Port. A rush to get the tickets.... get in line (only got lost here twice.... the ever vigilant Illy going o .... e.. y...yyy....”dont hit those people.... this is the wrong way... go back..... etc.. etc.....” ]
She does carry on sometimes... And… she claims to have found the Ship at last.... we screeched up the ramp.... parked the car… got hustled by the stevedore for the price of a café… (Played dumb tourist and thanked him for his offer which left him scratching his head) Drug the luggage... [She wanted to leave it in the car] up to the cabin.... not bad.... had to go back for her bag for shower stuff.... Hmmmmm.... changed..... and went for dinner.
Whhheeewwww…..
This is already way too long.... it’s 1.30 AM and the eye drooping Illy and Chuck have agreed to cover the Boat Ride, and Sicily after the return to Rome.
Hope y’all are enjoying our trip as much as we are..... Wish you were here..... Perhaps next time.
Ciao 4 Now....
Chuck and the over-tired and now pinching me vigorously, Illy
Sooooo this never to be spoken of again BOZZO in Pompei tells us....
”Oh no....you don’t want to go by way of Castella Mare.... too much traffic going to Sorrento... you are better off going back to Salerno and taking the Amalfi Coast road.... it’s shorter”.
(That schmuck!).... he knew that it would be dark soon and this route was one of the most treacherous in Italy; Also much narrower and less marked than our original planned route.
So now having missed the much anticipated sunset over Positano with the Wine and Cheese and olives on our Much desired terrace...
We’re winding our way through the overhanging rocks at 8PM… in the darkest of dark... dodging the Kamakazie’s... o… e... o....e.... LOOK out!!!!! When the now thoroughly up tight Chuck decides it’s time to pass this slow idiot in front, who finally very nicely stops and pulls over. Of course it was not for Chuckie.... It was for that BIG MUTHA BUS coming over the bridge and around the narrow corner.... [Which will not pass the bus very easily let alone a car too]
Soooo… of course the ever impatient Chuck must now attempt to back up with traffic behind him and on a very narrow.... steep.... rocky... dark… mountain road!!! So now it’s Busses 1, Chuck 0.... and the trip continued..... o....e......yawoooie!!!!!.. Yikes!!!!!. (forgot those before)
Now when I say this Road is a Toughie.... WOW!.... it is probably a breathtaking site in the daytime... .but at night..... Unhhh Unh... just lots of O.... E… E...Y...Y....etc.
Finally got to the Hotel Pasitea, which is down a one way, very Narrow Street at the bottom of the hill, to find the best room and view of the whole trip. (Well... Palermo’s View is a Close 2nd)... Then farther down the hill to a very cute little restaurant, where the food and people were 
wonderful!!!Met 4 nice ladies from Texas, Chicago etc..... actually Mother, Daughter, Daughter in Law and Friend.... who were having Way too much fun so they rated a place in the coming picture album along with the staff.
Off to bed and then to Wake to the most Breathtaking Morning view of
them all.... then Pictures of the every Acrophobic Illy clinging to the Balcony Railing for dear life.... a must have FOTO.... a lovely walk down the hill for Franco Bolli (stamps) so she could get Postal on 
us... [she needed to mail post cards from Italy to all the relatives] Back up to the car.... Pant.... Pant.... and off (the right way this time) to Pompeii.The correct route was indeed the better one, Perhaps why the hotels in the area and Mapquest suggest it????.... Only got lost one time trying to find a bank for more Lire and then off to the ruins of Pompeii.
Now here’s the deal.... DO NOT –repeat-- DO NOT EAT AT THE CAR PARK ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE RUINS that says “Entrance to Excavations” !!! [They will comp the $15.00 parking if you eat there) Park, pay the fee…and eat somewhere else!!! The food stinks... the attitude is worse.... it wasted another 1½ hours and caused us to cut the tour of Pompeii short so we could make the Ferry to Palermo.
Pompeii was unbelievable!!! Never realized how big the city was nor how much they have restored.... they even have a Via Mercurio there. Ya Gotta do it.... We may take some more time on the return to Rome.
The mad dash to Napoli was just that.... Getting lost only twice.... The Traffic at Rush hour was horrendous… o....e...y.. y.. y.. y.. y and we could not find how to get into the Port!!! We finally made a “gerare-U” (that’s Italian for U-turn) o.... e..... y... y.... ... e.... Right in front of the cop.... [I’m sure to find the charge for the traffic ticket on the Avis Bill] and finally got into the Port. A rush to get the tickets.... get in line (only got lost here twice.... the ever vigilant Illy going o .... e.. y...yyy....”dont hit those people.... this is the wrong way... go back..... etc.. etc.....” ]
She does carry on sometimes... And… she claims to have found the Ship at last.... we screeched up the ramp.... parked the car… got hustled by the stevedore for the price of a café… (Played dumb tourist and thanked him for his offer which left him scratching his head) Drug the luggage... [She wanted to leave it in the car] up to the cabin.... not bad.... had to go back for her bag for shower stuff.... Hmmmmm.... changed..... and went for dinner.
Whhheeewwww…..
This is already way too long.... it’s 1.30 AM and the eye drooping Illy and Chuck have agreed to cover the Boat Ride, and Sicily after the return to Rome.
Hope y’all are enjoying our trip as much as we are..... Wish you were here..... Perhaps next time.
Ciao 4 Now....
Chuck and the over-tired and now pinching me vigorously, Illy
WEDNESDAY-10.3.2001
Palermo
Just had to Say Ciao from and to Sicily.
I Am too excited to wait for the next installment!!!!!!!!!!!
Just got back from Termini Imerese, and touched the Soil of My ancestors!!! Two lovely ladies in the Uffici Comunale helped us find not only birth certificates but Marriage certificates and… The address of my grandparents in the late 1800’s.... before they were married!!!! We walked the streets and tasted the air that they breathed.... (Film at 11… tons of pics to follow)
The ever Antsy and Hungry Illy is once again bugging me to FEED HER..... Just stopped at the Hotel Bel3 to retrieve and pack our laundry and to pen this little note.....
For those who have not had a chance to see our Greeting Sign on the roof, It is taped to two chairs in front of the mast in the center of the cam view and they will leave it up for the evening
{Chucky Note-2... see note 1- the webcam link has chaged and the sign is long gone...Hey its over 15 years...An many more NOWAT to come}
Ciao for now
Chuck and the ever Starving and quite impatient Cuban Lady
Just had to Say Ciao from and to Sicily.
I Am too excited to wait for the next installment!!!!!!!!!!!
Just got back from Termini Imerese, and touched the Soil of My ancestors!!! Two lovely ladies in the Uffici Comunale helped us find not only birth certificates but Marriage certificates and… The address of my grandparents in the late 1800’s.... before they were married!!!! We walked the streets and tasted the air that they breathed.... (Film at 11… tons of pics to follow)
The ever Antsy and Hungry Illy is once again bugging me to FEED HER..... Just stopped at the Hotel Bel3 to retrieve and pack our laundry and to pen this little note.....
For those who have not had a chance to see our Greeting Sign on the roof, It is taped to two chairs in front of the mast in the center of the cam view and they will leave it up for the evening
{Chucky Note-2... see note 1- the webcam link has chaged and the sign is long gone...Hey its over 15 years...An many more NOWAT to come}
Ciao for now
Chuck and the ever Starving and quite impatient Cuban Lady
Wed-Fri-10.3-5.2001
Pompei-Naples-Palermo-Roma
This will be as short as we can make it as we are sure the others have been a bit long reading.... and we are attempting to wrap up from: Positano to Sicily to Montecalvo Irpino and back to Roma for a final Whirlwind “Arrivederci Roma”!!!
KABAAAAMMMM......kathunk.....kuthunk.... Sssst…. kathunk....ssssttt….
Oooohhhh S#!T o.... e.... y.. y.... y......
The road was 45 degrees down hill, Chuck is riding the break and backing down the transmission in third gear and we’re still going 60 MPH......when........
Oh wait.... We’re two days ahead of the story.....
We start off with the great ferry ride to Sicily.... but first another reminder......
When doing Pompei, DO NOT....REPEAT...DO NOT EAT AT THE PARKING AREA to the right of the exit from the Autostrade, across from the road up to the entrance to the Excavation. Food horrible... service worse and attitude????? Oh YEAH !!!
The race back from Pompei to the ferry in Napoli was a bit hectic....
[Illy—O....E.....Y...Y......O.....] The kamakazies in Napoli are worse than those in Rome.... and trying to find a way into the port... [again the Mapquest directions failed to note that there is no way going North to make the recommended left turn into the port.... soooooo.....Chuckie, taking a lead from the kamakazies ahead of him, makes the famous “Cianare-U” just before the tunnel leading north to Rome.... Right in front of the 3 Polizia, waiting to take tag numbers and mail you a ticket.... soooooo… the Avis Bill may have an additional add on for Traffic control.... we’ll see.
We finally find the way into the port..... pay for the tickets....only get lost finding the boat [3 times.....—Illy>>> “watch out for the tourists.....look out!!!! NO...wrong way......opppsssss, go back....” After a protracted attempt to calm her... we...emphasis on WE... finally find the right boat and get in line to board the car. This is an exact science for these guys. You should see the Tandem semi’s backing onto the ship Parking is easy.... and up to get the cabin key...not too bad.... nice outside cabin with all the comforts of home [Riiigght....] well it was pretty good...and the bathroom was as big as the one in the hotel Oxford [Ok.... just a little smaller].... but the shower was hot, the beds comfortable and all in all, a good choice.
Cocktails before dinner introduced us to a former Miami Beach Bartender, now on the boat.... [Loved Miami] never did get his name, and off to a lovely dinner, Where... we sit next to this cute foursome. Guy and three girls..... Interesting hairdo’s..... they were having too much fun.... so they rated a Picture.... which led to conversation and exchange of email addresses etc. He owns a Beauty Salon in Carini, Sicily... North of Palermo [this explains the interesting hair colors etc.] along with his wife Rosanne, traveling with two employees. Soooooo… after dinner.... it HAD to be coffee and Brandy in the Bar... and Photo’s around... Kisses around... Ciao’s around and promises to Write... [they even have an email address.]
Hhhhhmmm.... 2 Cocktails apiece.... [not small ones]... bottle of wine.... Cocktails after... and more cocktails..... Guess who slept well?
The boat [which left 1 hour late] made the time up and docked precisely at 7AM..... and boy do they hustle the cars off. We were on the way to Hotel Bel3 [getting past the morning rush
hour in the city center... O....e.....E...y...y...] and traveling smoothly with a purposeful and planned Cianare-U and following the well placed signs to “Hotel Bel 3 -->” and winding our way up another serpentine mountain road to arrive at the best view in Palermo. Those of you who had a chance to log onto the webcam site from the hotel cannot appreciate the view we had in person [film at 11]
Delightful people who, after we went in search of something big to make the “Hi USA” sign, helped us to get it up..... only to find that it was too far from the camera to be read. [changed the location later but not much better]
Actually...t this is how it really went. After a fun ride down the hill.... we spotted an Esso Gas Station that was using the back of large advertising posters for daily announcements.... Soooooo the ever hustling Chuckie talks them out of a poster and magic marker and does the sign there.... Of course he draws a crowd and has to explain in his ever improving, broken Italian.... about his “Amici’s” in America waiting for a sign from us. The had a good laugh and wished us “Buono Fortuna”.
Back to the hotel.... up the snake road...o...o..e...e....e.....y......[some of these guys come down the mountain and around the corners at 60 MPH] rush to put up the sign and head out for Termini Imerese.... the home of Chuckie’s ancestors.
Finding Termini was easy.... getting out of Palermo was another thing..... the guy at the hotel said “20 Minuti to Termini”....Yeah..... but he didn’t mention 30 minutes to get outta Palermo... Kamakazies and all !!!!.
Rolling into Termini, we proceeded to get lost often and on purpose to get the flavor of the city And get lost we did.... After passing the same corner 3 times and going down the same narrow one-way street twice [just wide enough to keep the tires off the side walk] we decided it might be a good idea to find a map!!!
Well now... the train station doesn’t have them.... the tabachi shops don’t have them... the hotels don’t have them.... NOBODY has them!!!! Seems like nobody gets lost here but us!!!! Sooooo… we do the usual thing:
“Senore...Mi Scusi....Puo Dire Mi, Dove il Ufficio della Municipio” [Please tell me where to find the Municipal offices]
Figured we might as well get started looking for the Family info.....
Well.... after getting chased out of the Piazza in front of the Municipio by the cop who indicated parking a few blocks away.... we encountered “Louis”, who, at the instance of his associate... directed us to another location, the “Uffici Comunale” [another nice local even offered to lead us there].....to find one Senorina Cardalla.... Once there, we attempted to find the info on Chuck’s grandparents etc. but the dates were hazy.... and of course Chucky had left all the Mortuary cards at home with the birth dates etc.... Soooooo she says...”Come back with a date and we’ll help you”, expecting to never see us again. [little did she know how determined we were!!!!]
Now we’re off to find a phone to call Greg back home, to find the info in a folder.... somewhere on Chuckie’s desk....[Have you seen Chuck’s desk lately?] and on the way.... we spot.... Ta DA!!!! the >>> “Uffici Della Tourismo”!!!!! [hey.... They gotta have maps!!!!]Wellllllll....yeesss.....and noooo....but they did load us up with lots of touristy stuff [all in Italian of course] and gave Illy a very complicated but precise map to the Public phones.... ask her to show it to you later [only found them the next day... Some map!!!] The phones that don’t take coins.... Only credit cards etc......
So Hey..... Maybe the Grand Hotel Terme [coincidentally in the same neighborhood as the Grandfathers house.... oooppps we are ahead of the story] Maybe they will let us make a call on the house phone and bill our credit card. After the third trip up and down “Via Serpintina” [real name] we’re getting good at finding the hotel and after a protracted attempt at getting the desk clerk to work with us, we are directed to a hot... steamy… unlit phone box. [This is the “Grand” Hotel Terme?] We finally get a line out to call Greg.... who by now, is off to work and all we get is his voice mail..... The much frustrated Chuckie tries everything.... and can’t even get the U.S. information operator to answer the phone....
Soooooooo.... after another short trip around the town.... we tumble upon the cute little Ristorante “Sal e Pepe” [Salt and Pepper] that was recommended by the Tourist lady of the nonfunctional phone map who gave even worse directions to the Ristorante, for a delightful meal before heading back to the hotel in Palermo. [Another photo op..... should have one for every Ristorante and Bar we ate in.
Alternating between the Autostrade and the coastal road for Pictures and flavors of the region, we arrive back in Palermo.... just in time for... RUSH HOUR!!!!!..... Soooo... the ever adept at map reading Illy,,,, [NOTTT] and the not too observant Chuckie, blow past our left turn at McDonalds [Yeah....the same McD’s, even in Sicily] and wind up way north of Palermo before we can get an Uscita [exit] for another Cianare-U.... getting good at these Italian U Turns.....
Now..... after getting lost a few more times... .we find the right turn [at McDonalds] for “Via Leonardo Di Vinci” and back to the hotel for a mediocre meal and hot bath....
After Chuckie sits on and breaks Illy’s glasses... we called Greg for the Right Dates and any other family info we could scare up. [He really tried to send that file Rene...] We then wrote the NOWAT report from Bel 3. [this really isn't out of order… just seems that way.
The next morning.... after locating a very nice Ottica [Optical repair and sale place].... right on Via L. Di Vinci .... Who would not take any payment for a very speedy repair of Illy’s glasses, we were off to Termini with the right dates etc.
We completely surprised Angela [Cardalla] who, with the assistance of “Salvi” another delightful local Civil servant and with good dates to start with, really got into digging up the info. Not only did we get the Birth info for the grand parents. But the Great grand parents as well and… their marriage certificates TOO! Once we had a good starting date.... the girls got really excited and had more OLD books.... the size of small boulders all over the place... tracing, and backing into info..... Needless to say.... we had a VERY emotional Chuckie on our hands by now... After getting certified copies of all the documents.... we headed out to find some flowers for these nice ladies as they would not take any payment for their services either. Nice folks these native Sicilians…Of Course!!!
Upon returning with some cute desktop dried flower arrangements for both [they were a quite surprised to see us again], Chuck took a stab at the possibility of some addresses for the Grandparents. Lo and behold.... there WERE addresses on the original documents and after some quick map work on the central office B I G map… we were off to find the roots of Chuck’s Italo-American family.
Remember the Grand Hotel Terme, So Close yet so far?... So happens it was built at the end of the Very Street on which Chuck’s Great Grandparents gave birth to Filippo Battiste Mercurio [Philip B.- Chuck’s Grandfather]. And… just a few blocks away... the Di Blasi Family gave birth to Dorothea Purpura [nee Di Blasi] who gave birth to Agatha [Ida] Purpura. Ida immigrated to Richmond, Indiana [where Phillip B. had also landed.... not sure that they even knew each other in Sicily, but it may have also been arranged] Ida married Phillip B. and together parented Baptiste, Vince and Salvatore August [Charlie], the last of which was Chuck’s dad..... whewwwwww.... that was a very emotional mouthful.!!!
There are abundant pictures of a V E R Y emotional Chuck actually touching the very building of his blood..... and standing in the small square where his grandmother played as a child.
While there, we ran into some very accommodating locals who directed us, rather, lead us to the “Congelati Himera Di Mercurio Diana” the fish market owned by one of the Many Mercurio families in Termini Bas [lower Termini] which is down the hill, close to the port. As opposed to Termini Alta, which is located on top of the hill. The whole bloody area is just one hill after another!!!! It seems that most of the Mercurio’s in Termini were/are fisherman while those that immigrated to America went into the Fruit and Vegetable Business. Diana has a son visiting America, who speaks English, who will call us upon his return to catch up on more family info. NEAT Hunh???
Quite an emotional day to say the least.... a short trip around town in search of more Film once more.... [Finally found the non-coin taking phones], found a Foto Shop along with some Great Panoramic shots of the city, [to be framed for the house]..... and a nice ceramic shop for some goodies...and.......
Back to Palermo.... remembering to turn at the McDonalds this time....a rush to get the laundry packed that had been sent our for cleaning [that was still damp].... and off to finish the tour of Palermo before boarding the boat for the return to Napoli.
Better ride back than over.... Better Waiter... better Food and sounder sleep.....It’s about time!!!!!!!!
Upon landing in Napoli.... and a few more Cianare-u’s... we were off to Montecalvo Irpino...the birth place of Chuck’s Maternal Grandfather.
Now when we said it was in the mountains.... we had no idea how high up.... we actually traveled in and over the clouds on the usual serpentine roads.... o... e.... y... e… o...y.... until we finally found Montecalvo.... not too easily......as usual.
It Took no effort to find the Ufici Communale this time though.... now that we knew what to ask for.... and a wonderful gentleman and his assistant were able to find a large amount of info for us.... Again more that we bargained for... Seems that Pops [Chuck’s-Mother's-Dad] had a few more sisters and brothers than we knew about.... so copies of those certificates were also made... Also got addresses.... but after 3 serious earthquakes in the past, most of the original town had been rebuilt and renumbered..
Now the Guy in Montecalvo Municipio provided the 2nd best one liner of the trip.... imitating Steve Martin >>>
”Do you Speaka English...... Ooohhhh Yeeessssss”....
.
Ok.....another one of those, “ya hadda been there moments” Ask Chuck to replay it for you.
We did however locate what may have been one of the residences of Giovanni Floriano and Maria Theresa Manna. Pops dad was a big Builder in Monte Calvo and also bit prolific and had to keep moving into larger quarters to accommodate the growing brood, and of course pictures ensued. This led to meeting a gentleman who currently owned one of the suspected properties [photo op] who then misunderstood the family name [Manna], and directed us to the local “molino” [grain miller] named Marra.
When stopping for clarification of the directions, we encountered another 2 local ladies, one of who accompanied us to the home of the miller and his family. Chuck’s grandfather was Manna [Manno after Ellis island mangled the name in the U.S] The old man who sent us understood Marra... [Chuck’s pronunciation needs a little work]
We caught the Marra’s right after lunch. and even after findg tha they were indeed NO relation they still nsisted that we join them and would not take NO for an answer. Let me tell you... Zuppa Fagiole with Potatoes and the Best Broth We have ever had, was never like this at home.... And the Home made wine.... Whewwwwww.... needless to say, they insisted in sending us home with a bottle wine along with some pretzels made from Giussepie’s special flower. A quick Tour of his Mill.... Kisses and photos all around and we’re off to take “Omerata” our elderly guide, home.
Soooooo... now we’re trying to find the right road back to Ariano Irpino, which we had to pass through to get back to the AutoStrade... and we take what we think is the correct turn when...
Down this incredibly steep Hill.... at 45 Degrees.....on this totally desolate country road... at 60 MPH.......riding third gear and the break.....when.........KABAMMMMMMMM.....we hit this 8” deep by 24” across pot hole that was all but invisible and impossible to miss at the last minute..... Welllllllll.......kathump...kathump..Sssssttt…..kathump...Sssssstttt….kathump....
“OK.....Ya Broke the Car now!!!!” The ever so observant Illy Screeched.
Fortunately we were able to get to the bottom of this wacky… some times dirt road... and to a somewhat level spot to change the flattening tire for the Doughnut [Terrible American invention adopted by Alfa Romeo]. We discover that the Rim only had a good ding in it and fortunately we did not rip the VERY expensive Perrilli Tire. Just then a nice local Tomato Farmer passed by and directed us to a Gas station that also had Perrilii repair shop and after having the ding hammered out, all four tires re-balanced and rotated, we were on our way back to Rome.
Trip back uneventful... actually found the Autostrade on the first try.... of course if you haven’t been on a European Autostrade.... ya gotta try it... We’re Traveling at 100+ MPH and these bozo’s are passing as if We were standing Still!!!!!
One Cianare U in Rome.... [Chuckie studied the Rome map so much before and along with his uncanny sense of directions once he has a good orientation] and we found the Hotel near the Train station.... of course… not before Avis closed.... so we had to park overnight in the Coolest Parking garage we have ever seen... [Turn table auto parking device scoops up and parks the car for you, on another floor altogether!!]
Now we drag the stuff up to the Hotel Scott House, forth floor, and unloaded the bags and the spoils of our search. A Long walk to the Piazza Navona for Dinner after a short Metro ride to the Spanish Steps [to be covered in detail below… Kids... DO NOT try this at home,,,,,,] the Metro stops at 11.30 so we blew the extra tickets we bought and walked to Via Veneto.... flagged down a Taxi and crashed for a well deserved rest.
The last day in Italy may... or may not be covered later from Rome.... or if need be… upon our return home.
We certainly hope you have enjoyed traveling with us so far... and we look forward to the flight home... although Illy is not too sure about that 6 AM train ride to the Airport...
Ciao 4 Now
Chuck and the VERY tired.... but very Satisfied with the trip Cuban Lady
This will be as short as we can make it as we are sure the others have been a bit long reading.... and we are attempting to wrap up from: Positano to Sicily to Montecalvo Irpino and back to Roma for a final Whirlwind “Arrivederci Roma”!!!
KABAAAAMMMM......kathunk.....kuthunk.... Sssst…. kathunk....ssssttt….
Oooohhhh S#!T o.... e.... y.. y.... y......
The road was 45 degrees down hill, Chuck is riding the break and backing down the transmission in third gear and we’re still going 60 MPH......when........
Oh wait.... We’re two days ahead of the story.....
We start off with the great ferry ride to Sicily.... but first another reminder......
When doing Pompei, DO NOT....REPEAT...DO NOT EAT AT THE PARKING AREA to the right of the exit from the Autostrade, across from the road up to the entrance to the Excavation. Food horrible... service worse and attitude????? Oh YEAH !!!
The race back from Pompei to the ferry in Napoli was a bit hectic....
[Illy—O....E.....Y...Y......O.....] The kamakazies in Napoli are worse than those in Rome.... and trying to find a way into the port... [again the Mapquest directions failed to note that there is no way going North to make the recommended left turn into the port.... soooooo.....Chuckie, taking a lead from the kamakazies ahead of him, makes the famous “Cianare-U” just before the tunnel leading north to Rome.... Right in front of the 3 Polizia, waiting to take tag numbers and mail you a ticket.... soooooo… the Avis Bill may have an additional add on for Traffic control.... we’ll see.
We finally find the way into the port..... pay for the tickets....only get lost finding the boat [3 times.....—Illy>>> “watch out for the tourists.....look out!!!! NO...wrong way......opppsssss, go back....” After a protracted attempt to calm her... we...emphasis on WE... finally find the right boat and get in line to board the car. This is an exact science for these guys. You should see the Tandem semi’s backing onto the ship Parking is easy.... and up to get the cabin key...not too bad.... nice outside cabin with all the comforts of home [Riiigght....] well it was pretty good...and the bathroom was as big as the one in the hotel Oxford [Ok.... just a little smaller].... but the shower was hot, the beds comfortable and all in all, a good choice.
Cocktails before dinner introduced us to a former Miami Beach Bartender, now on the boat.... [Loved Miami] never did get his name, and off to a lovely dinner, Where... we sit next to this cute foursome. Guy and three girls..... Interesting hairdo’s..... they were having too much fun.... so they rated a Picture.... which led to conversation and exchange of email addresses etc. He owns a Beauty Salon in Carini, Sicily... North of Palermo [this explains the interesting hair colors etc.] along with his wife Rosanne, traveling with two employees. Soooooo… after dinner.... it HAD to be coffee and Brandy in the Bar... and Photo’s around... Kisses around... Ciao’s around and promises to Write... [they even have an email address.]
Hhhhhmmm.... 2 Cocktails apiece.... [not small ones]... bottle of wine.... Cocktails after... and more cocktails..... Guess who slept well?
The boat [which left 1 hour late] made the time up and docked precisely at 7AM..... and boy do they hustle the cars off. We were on the way to Hotel Bel3 [getting past the morning rush
hour in the city center... O....e.....E...y...y...] and traveling smoothly with a purposeful and planned Cianare-U and following the well placed signs to “Hotel Bel 3 -->” and winding our way up another serpentine mountain road to arrive at the best view in Palermo. Those of you who had a chance to log onto the webcam site from the hotel cannot appreciate the view we had in person [film at 11]Delightful people who, after we went in search of something big to make the “Hi USA” sign, helped us to get it up..... only to find that it was too far from the camera to be read. [changed the location later but not much better]
Actually...t this is how it really went. After a fun ride down the hill.... we spotted an Esso Gas Station that was using the back of large advertising posters for daily announcements.... Soooooo the ever hustling Chuckie talks them out of a poster and magic marker and does the sign there.... Of course he draws a crowd and has to explain in his ever improving, broken Italian.... about his “Amici’s” in America waiting for a sign from us. The had a good laugh and wished us “Buono Fortuna”.
Back to the hotel.... up the snake road...o...o..e...e....e.....y......[some of these guys come down the mountain and around the corners at 60 MPH] rush to put up the sign and head out for Termini Imerese.... the home of Chuckie’s ancestors.
Finding Termini was easy.... getting out of Palermo was another thing..... the guy at the hotel said “20 Minuti to Termini”....Yeah..... but he didn’t mention 30 minutes to get outta Palermo... Kamakazies and all !!!!.
Rolling into Termini, we proceeded to get lost often and on purpose to get the flavor of the city And get lost we did.... After passing the same corner 3 times and going down the same narrow one-way street twice [just wide enough to keep the tires off the side walk] we decided it might be a good idea to find a map!!!
Well now... the train station doesn’t have them.... the tabachi shops don’t have them... the hotels don’t have them.... NOBODY has them!!!! Seems like nobody gets lost here but us!!!! Sooooo… we do the usual thing:
“Senore...Mi Scusi....Puo Dire Mi, Dove il Ufficio della Municipio” [Please tell me where to find the Municipal offices]
Figured we might as well get started looking for the Family info.....
Well.... after getting chased out of the Piazza in front of the Municipio by the cop who indicated parking a few blocks away.... we encountered “Louis”, who, at the instance of his associate... directed us to another location, the “Uffici Comunale” [another nice local even offered to lead us there].....to find one Senorina Cardalla.... Once there, we attempted to find the info on Chuck’s grandparents etc. but the dates were hazy.... and of course Chucky had left all the Mortuary cards at home with the birth dates etc.... Soooooo she says...”Come back with a date and we’ll help you”, expecting to never see us again. [little did she know how determined we were!!!!]
Now we’re off to find a phone to call Greg back home, to find the info in a folder.... somewhere on Chuckie’s desk....[Have you seen Chuck’s desk lately?] and on the way.... we spot.... Ta DA!!!! the >>> “Uffici Della Tourismo”!!!!! [hey.... They gotta have maps!!!!]Wellllllll....yeesss.....and noooo....but they did load us up with lots of touristy stuff [all in Italian of course] and gave Illy a very complicated but precise map to the Public phones.... ask her to show it to you later [only found them the next day... Some map!!!] The phones that don’t take coins.... Only credit cards etc......
So Hey..... Maybe the Grand Hotel Terme [coincidentally in the same neighborhood as the Grandfathers house.... oooppps we are ahead of the story] Maybe they will let us make a call on the house phone and bill our credit card. After the third trip up and down “Via Serpintina” [real name] we’re getting good at finding the hotel and after a protracted attempt at getting the desk clerk to work with us, we are directed to a hot... steamy… unlit phone box. [This is the “Grand” Hotel Terme?] We finally get a line out to call Greg.... who by now, is off to work and all we get is his voice mail..... The much frustrated Chuckie tries everything.... and can’t even get the U.S. information operator to answer the phone....
Soooooooo.... after another short trip around the town.... we tumble upon the cute little Ristorante “Sal e Pepe” [Salt and Pepper] that was recommended by the Tourist lady of the nonfunctional phone map who gave even worse directions to the Ristorante, for a delightful meal before heading back to the hotel in Palermo. [Another photo op..... should have one for every Ristorante and Bar we ate in.
Alternating between the Autostrade and the coastal road for Pictures and flavors of the region, we arrive back in Palermo.... just in time for... RUSH HOUR!!!!!..... Soooo... the ever adept at map reading Illy,,,, [NOTTT] and the not too observant Chuckie, blow past our left turn at McDonalds [Yeah....the same McD’s, even in Sicily] and wind up way north of Palermo before we can get an Uscita [exit] for another Cianare-U.... getting good at these Italian U Turns.....
Now..... after getting lost a few more times... .we find the right turn [at McDonalds] for “Via Leonardo Di Vinci” and back to the hotel for a mediocre meal and hot bath....
After Chuckie sits on and breaks Illy’s glasses... we called Greg for the Right Dates and any other family info we could scare up. [He really tried to send that file Rene...] We then wrote the NOWAT report from Bel 3. [this really isn't out of order… just seems that way.
The next morning.... after locating a very nice Ottica [Optical repair and sale place].... right on Via L. Di Vinci .... Who would not take any payment for a very speedy repair of Illy’s glasses, we were off to Termini with the right dates etc.
We completely surprised Angela [Cardalla] who, with the assistance of “Salvi” another delightful local Civil servant and with good dates to start with, really got into digging up the info. Not only did we get the Birth info for the grand parents. But the Great grand parents as well and… their marriage certificates TOO! Once we had a good starting date.... the girls got really excited and had more OLD books.... the size of small boulders all over the place... tracing, and backing into info..... Needless to say.... we had a VERY emotional Chuckie on our hands by now... After getting certified copies of all the documents.... we headed out to find some flowers for these nice ladies as they would not take any payment for their services either. Nice folks these native Sicilians…Of Course!!!
Upon returning with some cute desktop dried flower arrangements for both [they were a quite surprised to see us again], Chuck took a stab at the possibility of some addresses for the Grandparents. Lo and behold.... there WERE addresses on the original documents and after some quick map work on the central office B I G map… we were off to find the roots of Chuck’s Italo-American family.
Remember the Grand Hotel Terme, So Close yet so far?... So happens it was built at the end of the Very Street on which Chuck’s Great Grandparents gave birth to Filippo Battiste Mercurio [Philip B.- Chuck’s Grandfather]. And… just a few blocks away... the Di Blasi Family gave birth to Dorothea Purpura [nee Di Blasi] who gave birth to Agatha [Ida] Purpura. Ida immigrated to Richmond, Indiana [where Phillip B. had also landed.... not sure that they even knew each other in Sicily, but it may have also been arranged] Ida married Phillip B. and together parented Baptiste, Vince and Salvatore August [Charlie], the last of which was Chuck’s dad..... whewwwwww.... that was a very emotional mouthful.!!!
There are abundant pictures of a V E R Y emotional Chuck actually touching the very building of his blood..... and standing in the small square where his grandmother played as a child.
While there, we ran into some very accommodating locals who directed us, rather, lead us to the “Congelati Himera Di Mercurio Diana” the fish market owned by one of the Many Mercurio families in Termini Bas [lower Termini] which is down the hill, close to the port. As opposed to Termini Alta, which is located on top of the hill. The whole bloody area is just one hill after another!!!! It seems that most of the Mercurio’s in Termini were/are fisherman while those that immigrated to America went into the Fruit and Vegetable Business. Diana has a son visiting America, who speaks English, who will call us upon his return to catch up on more family info. NEAT Hunh???
Quite an emotional day to say the least.... a short trip around town in search of more Film once more.... [Finally found the non-coin taking phones], found a Foto Shop along with some Great Panoramic shots of the city, [to be framed for the house]..... and a nice ceramic shop for some goodies...and.......
Back to Palermo.... remembering to turn at the McDonalds this time....a rush to get the laundry packed that had been sent our for cleaning [that was still damp].... and off to finish the tour of Palermo before boarding the boat for the return to Napoli.
Better ride back than over.... Better Waiter... better Food and sounder sleep.....It’s about time!!!!!!!!
Upon landing in Napoli.... and a few more Cianare-u’s... we were off to Montecalvo Irpino...the birth place of Chuck’s Maternal Grandfather.
Now when we said it was in the mountains.... we had no idea how high up.... we actually traveled in and over the clouds on the usual serpentine roads.... o... e.... y... e… o...y.... until we finally found Montecalvo.... not too easily......as usual.
It Took no effort to find the Ufici Communale this time though.... now that we knew what to ask for.... and a wonderful gentleman and his assistant were able to find a large amount of info for us.... Again more that we bargained for... Seems that Pops [Chuck’s-Mother's-Dad] had a few more sisters and brothers than we knew about.... so copies of those certificates were also made... Also got addresses.... but after 3 serious earthquakes in the past, most of the original town had been rebuilt and renumbered..
Now the Guy in Montecalvo Municipio provided the 2nd best one liner of the trip.... imitating Steve Martin >>>
”Do you Speaka English...... Ooohhhh Yeeessssss”....
.
Ok.....another one of those, “ya hadda been there moments” Ask Chuck to replay it for you.
We did however locate what may have been one of the residences of Giovanni Floriano and Maria Theresa Manna. Pops dad was a big Builder in Monte Calvo and also bit prolific and had to keep moving into larger quarters to accommodate the growing brood, and of course pictures ensued. This led to meeting a gentleman who currently owned one of the suspected properties [photo op] who then misunderstood the family name [Manna], and directed us to the local “molino” [grain miller] named Marra.
When stopping for clarification of the directions, we encountered another 2 local ladies, one of who accompanied us to the home of the miller and his family. Chuck’s grandfather was Manna [Manno after Ellis island mangled the name in the U.S] The old man who sent us understood Marra... [Chuck’s pronunciation needs a little work]
We caught the Marra’s right after lunch. and even after findg tha they were indeed NO relation they still nsisted that we join them and would not take NO for an answer. Let me tell you... Zuppa Fagiole with Potatoes and the Best Broth We have ever had, was never like this at home.... And the Home made wine.... Whewwwwww.... needless to say, they insisted in sending us home with a bottle wine along with some pretzels made from Giussepie’s special flower. A quick Tour of his Mill.... Kisses and photos all around and we’re off to take “Omerata” our elderly guide, home.
Soooooo... now we’re trying to find the right road back to Ariano Irpino, which we had to pass through to get back to the AutoStrade... and we take what we think is the correct turn when...
Down this incredibly steep Hill.... at 45 Degrees.....on this totally desolate country road... at 60 MPH.......riding third gear and the break.....when.........KABAMMMMMMMM.....we hit this 8” deep by 24” across pot hole that was all but invisible and impossible to miss at the last minute..... Welllllllll.......kathump...kathump..Sssssttt…..kathump...Sssssstttt….kathump....
“OK.....Ya Broke the Car now!!!!” The ever so observant Illy Screeched.
Fortunately we were able to get to the bottom of this wacky… some times dirt road... and to a somewhat level spot to change the flattening tire for the Doughnut [Terrible American invention adopted by Alfa Romeo]. We discover that the Rim only had a good ding in it and fortunately we did not rip the VERY expensive Perrilli Tire. Just then a nice local Tomato Farmer passed by and directed us to a Gas station that also had Perrilii repair shop and after having the ding hammered out, all four tires re-balanced and rotated, we were on our way back to Rome.
Trip back uneventful... actually found the Autostrade on the first try.... of course if you haven’t been on a European Autostrade.... ya gotta try it... We’re Traveling at 100+ MPH and these bozo’s are passing as if We were standing Still!!!!!
One Cianare U in Rome.... [Chuckie studied the Rome map so much before and along with his uncanny sense of directions once he has a good orientation] and we found the Hotel near the Train station.... of course… not before Avis closed.... so we had to park overnight in the Coolest Parking garage we have ever seen... [Turn table auto parking device scoops up and parks the car for you, on another floor altogether!!]
Now we drag the stuff up to the Hotel Scott House, forth floor, and unloaded the bags and the spoils of our search. A Long walk to the Piazza Navona for Dinner after a short Metro ride to the Spanish Steps [to be covered in detail below… Kids... DO NOT try this at home,,,,,,] the Metro stops at 11.30 so we blew the extra tickets we bought and walked to Via Veneto.... flagged down a Taxi and crashed for a well deserved rest.
The last day in Italy may... or may not be covered later from Rome.... or if need be… upon our return home.
We certainly hope you have enjoyed traveling with us so far... and we look forward to the flight home... although Illy is not too sure about that 6 AM train ride to the Airport...
Ciao 4 Now
Chuck and the VERY tired.... but very Satisfied with the trip Cuban Lady
MONDAY-10.8.2001 Wrap-Up
HOLLYWOOD, FL
HOME
My eyes are running, my nose is dribbling and my head is spinning...where did this cold come from??? In the background I hear the faint “tock..tock..tock of a computer keyboard, ok... now I got it.... I climb ever so slowly from bed and shuffle into the office to find Illy, at her usual Sunday morning perch in front of her computer, downloading more bits of seemingly useless information… and in the process of rehashing another of those never ending “templates" that the mucky mucks at BAPCO are so hot to have and have yet to figure out what to do with.
Nothing new here....
“How do you feel?” she asks.
“You’re not going to believe this”, I Say, “but I just had the weirdest dream.
“Oh Really she asks?”
"I dreamt that we were flying to Florence, Italy in a plane that got hit by lightning... Then we walked all over the town trying to find art, history and a leather coat. Then we’re on this strange train ride to Rome, where again we wandered all over town taking pictures in the strangest places, and met some cute Italian boy that we tried to gift wrap for Christina but he was already engaged. Some how a couple of brides and weddings got mixed into it along with the Coliseum. And then.... now get this really weird part... we rented a car, drove along this really crazy winding road at night to some quirky little village that hung off a cliff.... and then we wound up in Pompeii only to find a street named Via Mercurio... and now comes the really strange part... we took this boat... car and all... to Sicily to find my father’s, father’s birth place... and actually found it!!! And then we take the boat back to the mainland to find my Mother’s, father’s birth place, some place high in the mountains and meet a guy that imitates Steve Martin [a little too old for Christina] and he helps us find Pop’s info too!! Then we have lunch with these really nice strangers who thought we were relatives and then the next thing ya know we’re heading back to Rome @ 100+ MPH to wind up in this seedy little hotel because its near the train station... Then we wander all over Rome again!!!
The next thing I know, I’m waking up with this lousy cold. That had to be the Wackiest dream I’ve ever had!!!!"
Illy looked at me with that wistful smile of hers and with her eyes misting up she says, “Honey, that was no dream.”
Pointing to the 11 rolls of film and the panoramic throwaway camera on the desk, she beams,
“And I’ve got Proof!! Go take a shower, clear your head and come back to finish NOWAT ITALIA for our friends and Family.”
Well dear hearts… that’s just what I did. After a long hot shower and a quick run to the beach for Jamaican Eggs Benedict, we stopped at the mall to get the film developed. And now that the head is a little clearer, I can deliver the final Volume of NOWAT ITALIA and the finale of our Adventures in Italy.
Sit back and take a deep breath, this WILL NOT be a short ride.
As I related in the last note, we arrived back in Rome, too late for the car return, and had to stow it at a car park overnight. After checking into the hotel, the ever Hungry Illy, has now decided that we just MUST find the Piazza Navona to have dinner at one of those “cute little tourist Ristorantes” and browse the shops. So we ask this nice Polizia at the Stazione Termini near the hotel, for the best way to get there. He of course says, “You must take the A Train” [sounds like an old Jazz tune to me] to the Spanish Steps. The Piazza Navona is not far from there.... just a short walk.
Now here’s the deal.... DO NOT ever ask a cop in Italy for directions and expect to get a “Short Walk”. It went something like this: “Quando si arriva a Espagna, scendre Via Condotti, Sempre Diritto, a Via Cavor. Gira Sinistra, Sempre Diritto a il due semaforo y gira’ destra, sempre diritto [everything is “Sempre Diritto”] y Aproprio li !”
Loosely translated... ”When you get to the Spanish Steps, go down via Condotti [Rome’s version of Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive] straight ahead [Sempre diritto] to Via Cavor,” [another Kamakazie favored street, which properly is 4 lanes across, except at a stop light, where it then becomes 7 or 8 across---on one side!!! ... depending on the time of day] “Take a left on Via Cavor then, Hang a right at the second [or was it the 3rd] stop light [semaforo] and go straight ahead and there it is!” Yeah.... Right.... After arriving at the Spanish Steps and after 3 stops to verify this “short way” before we head out, one cop says... “Oh si signore... only 1 or 2 Kilometers.”
Yeah..... Right... and this Sempre Diritto stuff....
They forget to mention that there are a few slight lefts and slight rights etc... leading down some very interesting alleys and out again. Approximately “4” kilometers, 3 Cianare-u’s and we finally arrive at Piazza Navona, to collapse at the first nice looking spot.
I hustle off to pick up some spare Metro Tickets at the Tabacci to get us back to the hotel. After a leisurely meal, watching the mimes, gigolo’s, tourists and various street hustlers in the Piazza, we head out back to the Spanish Steps, the closest Metro station, only to find that the Metro shuts down at 11.30!!!
Soooo.... now we can’t go back the way we came.... the gates are closed behind us.... we are now trekking up the steps… and up the steps... and up the steps... out of the closed metro station... towards the far end of Via Veneto, which we follow to the Chica Chica Boom Club [still didn’t get in to see what all the fuss about this place was] and Flag down a Taxi who delivered us safely to the Hotel. Whewwww!
The next day.... I head out early while Illy plays hug-a-bed... [she needed it] to retrieve the car and return it Avis. [Don’t tell them about the tire rim, the boys in Montecalvo Irpino did such a good repair job, nobody will know] I was even able to talk him into covering the charges for the overnight parking because he closed early on me the night before. [They really didn’t but Hey....ya gotta give them a little guilt trip once in a while for all their Roman Attitude!!!] Now with a reduced bill in hand [can’t wait for them to get the traffic ticket in the mail from the Famous Naples Cianare-U in front of the cops at the tunnel]
I stop to pick up tickets for the train to the Airport Saturday morning. Now, the train is named the Leonardo “Express”.... after the Leonardo Da Vinci airport.... but trust me...as we found out at 5.51Am on Saturday, it is ANYTHING BUT an express. A supposed 28 minute ride took 54 minutes,putting us in a race for.... but wait..... again I’m ahead of the story. Anyhow.... got the tickets and Took Illy out for a quick breakfast, [the one at the hotel was so crowded that it wasn’t worth it] and headed out for a final “Arrivederci Roma”. Well not really Arrivederci, more like Ciao, because we had already decided that there was so much we hadn’t seen or could catch up with in just one day that a return trip would be in order soon.
Sooooo… of course the natural first stop was the Trevi fountain for a little insurance in the form of the traditional over the shoulder coin toss. Now remember the little pig in Florence, [Il Porcelino with coin drop off the tongue through the grates to insure a speedy return to Florence? Well if the legend, and the Rosano Brazzi “3 coins in the Fountain” movie hold true.... Chuckie will be back in Rome as well as Florence next year, while Illy, on the other hand, never even made the water on 3 tries.... [to be fair.... they chose this morning to drain and clean the fountain, so they had it roped off a bit too far back for the average person to pitch over the shoulder with any luck.] So as it stands... [We stopped a local Chiesa [church] for a little divine intervention with the coin bit and pray that] Illy may return with Chuck soon. [Of course she has got to get him past Florence first, where he has threatened to jump ship, get an apartment on the Arno and send Illy home to ship back his computer and files.]
Now we head out to finish our tour of Rome, pick up a few souvenirs, [”chotchkie’s” as Illy has taken to calling them] and see how many more Cianare-u’s we can make. Along the way, we decided to stop at a bank to change money for the purchases. Now hear this... If you ever have the choice of: doing any banking in Rome, or having root canal work... Choose the root canal! After standing in line at 4 different banks, only to find that 2, which advertised “Change” facilities don’t do it anymore... [But The signs are still all over the bank!!] The other 2 had impossibly long lines so we finally had to double back 4 blocks to the Banco De Roma. Here they at least had some place to sit while you waited for your number to be called [yep.... just like the deli at Publix] Cute digital sign “dings” your number and indicates the teller to go to.
On the Way out, Illy spots a little Carousela [Horse and Buggy] and decides that since we didn’t do one in Florence... NOW’s the time!! Sooooo… Back to the Trevi Fountain to find the right horse. Ya gotta understand... the ever humane, Tree Hugging and animal sensitive Cuban lady must first bond with the proper horse before she’ll get into the carriage... DON’T ASK... just work with me here!!!! So now we’re clomping along en-route to all the places we’ve already been to.... [but Hey....it’s in a carriage with a cute horse!!!!] First the Spanish Steps and the Monument to Michelangelo [don’t they have enough tributes to him yet???] which is to be dedicated by the Pope at the end of October, [Missed him again!!.... He gives blessings in St Peter’s on Wednesday... we arrive on Thursday! He comes out for blessings on Sunday... We leave on Saturday! Can’t seem to win with this GUY...] On with the clomp.... clomp... clomp to a quick glimpse from afar of the former women’s prison, Castel San Angelo near St Peter’s, [hey... I thought we were supposed to be getting a ride along the Tiber... A quick stop at the Argentine forum, another excavation in the middle of Rome, which is also now a Cat Sanctuary.... [you won’t believe the number of cats here...
Which reminds me....The Coloseo is also overrun with the alleged direct descendents of the famous Lions/Christian battles, but in a 1/16th scale model] The Argentine Forum is also adjacent to the Curia where, as all of you history buffs will recall ‘twas on that fateful day in March that Julius Ceasar felt a stabbing pain and then asked Brutus about his lunch plans. [“Et Tu Brute”? OK...OK bad pun....] Then we were off to Piaza Navona.... [Again] for some more Photo ops, then south to the Capital and finally Piazza Venezia, where you COULD gain access as opposed to an earlier erroneous report that you couldn’t. That’s what I get for asking a local hooker on a motor scooter that first night in the rain. After taking a picture of yet another monument to either Da Vinci or Michelangelo [can’t remember which by now] we set off to climb E V E R Y - L A S T S T E P of the Piazza Venezia for some stunning pictures. Then back down to stop by the Capital, considered to be one of the best Museums in Rome [which of course we did not have time to go into] Which also had its grand entrance and courtyard designed by Michelangelo, [this boy really does got around]. We then wandered around out back to discover the north end of the Foro Romano, or Roman Forum where, it is said, that Romulus and Remulus, legendary founders of Rome [who were raised by a wolf no less… perhaps this explains the Roman Gigolos [Wolves]…
Ok… OK, I’ll get on with it… where the Wolf boys built the foundation of the Roman empire in a Swamp. Upon tripping down the treacherous path, we met Signore Federico, who for a paltry sum will be our guide. The ever-skeptical Illy is not too keen on this idea because of his utterly disheveled look, but the ever-amused Chuckie is taken by this threadbare old man and senses an immediate passion for the subject is at hand [aside from his obvious passion for the grape]. It was well worth the price, Federico’s oratory truly blazed with passion, his deep insight and commentary as well as little known facts made the trip through the Forum most enjoyable and informative. When you get to Rome... this is another MUST stop, just to see the enormity of the ruins here and ponder the glory that was Rome. Quick pics around including the Cute archeological students working in the excavation, then a metro ride to Via Cavor [can’t escape this street.] and our last meal in Rome.
Cute little bar, where Chuck once again hustles the poor waiter out of a Cafe Cup [he’s been doing this all over Italy and has now completed his set of 6] and off to finish the souvenir hunt and find an internet kiosk to pen the last NOWAT from Rome. A stop along the way nets a canister of “ILLY” coffee, [wait till you see her picture under the “ILLY” sign in Sicily] and a special “ILLY” Collections Cafe Cup. A supposed real bargain $50 later!!! Chuck is still wondering how she pulled that one off [Wait… remember the 6 cups in Florence @ $80?] [Note to Chuck: do not let Illy do the bargaining... for AnyThing!]
Just a quick note for all of you who were expecting Holy Water from the Vatican... Fuhgedaboudit!!! It seems that you just can’t buy it anywhere!!! There seems to be a bit of a moral dilemma about selling the stuff. And… the only continual suggestion we got was to fill a bottle at some church when they weren’t looking, which for my part left doubt about the sanctity of something you had to steal from the church in the first place. So... to those in real need, please feel free to stop by your local parish with a bottle of Evian and have Father Tony bless it for you. I am told it works just the same.
By now it’s 9pm and time to see if the Credit card machine at the hotel has been fixed [wouldn’t want to stiff them on the bill, cause Chuckie has not enough cash left, cause Illy got all her Chotchkie’s... and the banks are closed. Of course the night desk clerk has no idea of what is happening, seems like the day crew forgot to pass on the details, or how to work the credit card machine.[sound familiar Rene’?] After a little persuasion, he finally calls someone who walks him through hooking up the right machine and all is well in Rome as we finish packing and crash for the night.
An early wake up call [he did get that one right] has us off to the Stazione Termini looking for a quick Cafe before boarding the afore mentioned Leonardo Express, only to find: you can’t get a cup of Cafe until after 7AM!! Since we leave at 5.41am, we have to wait until the “express” gets to the airport. Now from day one we have been told that due to all the increased security, we need to be at the airport no later than 2 hours in advance. Of course there is no way since the “Leonardo” wasn’t due to get there until 1½ hours in advance, and of course since it is running 30 minutes late.... we are hauling Ass to get to the check in counter... which is 10 deep.... but we make it through with time to spare for a quick cafe because… the flight is delayed getting off the ground....of course!
Now, once in Milan, we originally had only about 45 minutes to make the connection to Miami but now the plane from Rome is almost 35 minutes late.... and we have to clear Italian customs with only one line out while there were 3 coming in... and… of course you know the gate is at the other end of the airport... so here we are hauling Ass again only to find..... Due to increased security... [There are cops all over the plane] we are delayed first 15, then 30 then 45, and finally, 1 hour later, we are ready for boarding. Of course not before the carry on baggage and passports are checked 3 times before we can get past the gate, which is fine with me, rather safe than...
We finally lift off from Milan, take the last picture on the last roll of film of the tops of the French Alps and Bid Ciao to Italy. Flight home, the usual tedious 12 hour, jet lag producing stupor, which is made more tedious because now Chucky has a full dose of the Cold Illy caught in Florence and the fluctuating pressure in the cabin has his Sinus’ doing the Barometric BasaNova .
The pilot found Miami without a cianare-U… [I guess we were the only ones doing that] and we prepared to maneuver customs, where of course they had to confiscate my Prosciuto, [I did not know Mad Cow disease worked on Pigs] but that’s what they said. We did get through with some great Parmigiano-Reggiano and REAL Provologne. Then we almost had to arm wrestle the Customs officer over the Home made wine from Giusspe Mara- the miller in Montecalvo Irpino but she finally relented when the now exhausted Cuban Lady Swore to drink it then and there before she would surrender it. [Those of you at BAPCO KNOW that look in her eyes and how she can be when she digs her heels in!]
We were told I-95 was a parking lot so our ride home cut through Hialeah [as if you can just cut through Hialeah on a Saturday] and arrived safely in Hollywood.
To our Friends, Family and innocent bystanders who have received all our notes: We sincerely hope you have enjoyed traveling Italy with the Wacky American Tourist and the ever lovely if not sometimes Feisty Cuban Lady. Thanks for bearing with our little diatribe, we pray that we haven’t bored you too much with our fun, follies, adventures and sometimes anal details of what will forever be the most memorable two weeks of our lives. I will never look at another pictures of the DAVID, the Piata’ or the Sistine Chapel again without remembering the awesome majesty of Michelangelo’s genus. Nor can we ever forget the true raw emotion of walking the soil of my ancestors, or the fabulous mountain vistas above the clouds, or the Excitement that is Florence, or.... or.... Ahhhhh.... VIVA ITALIA!!!
The 356 pictures have been developed and they came out better than we had hoped for. They had trouble getting the last 3 rolls on a disk because the machine broke down, but we’ll have them in the next couple of days. As soon as we can get it organized we’ll either put them up on a web site for all to enjoy or perhaps arranged in a Powerpoint Slide show. Hell, the ever anal Chuck may even annotate them to match the NOWAT journals... but don’t count on it. Again, thanks for traveling with us we just wish you could have been along to really savor the sights, sounds and flavors that are Exclusively Italy.
May God Bless y’all with Love, Peace and Happiness!
Ciao 4 Now, Chuck and the thoroughly exhausted, but very content Cuban Lady
HOME
My eyes are running, my nose is dribbling and my head is spinning...where did this cold come from??? In the background I hear the faint “tock..tock..tock of a computer keyboard, ok... now I got it.... I climb ever so slowly from bed and shuffle into the office to find Illy, at her usual Sunday morning perch in front of her computer, downloading more bits of seemingly useless information… and in the process of rehashing another of those never ending “templates" that the mucky mucks at BAPCO are so hot to have and have yet to figure out what to do with.
Nothing new here....
“How do you feel?” she asks.
“You’re not going to believe this”, I Say, “but I just had the weirdest dream.
“Oh Really she asks?”
"I dreamt that we were flying to Florence, Italy in a plane that got hit by lightning... Then we walked all over the town trying to find art, history and a leather coat. Then we’re on this strange train ride to Rome, where again we wandered all over town taking pictures in the strangest places, and met some cute Italian boy that we tried to gift wrap for Christina but he was already engaged. Some how a couple of brides and weddings got mixed into it along with the Coliseum. And then.... now get this really weird part... we rented a car, drove along this really crazy winding road at night to some quirky little village that hung off a cliff.... and then we wound up in Pompeii only to find a street named Via Mercurio... and now comes the really strange part... we took this boat... car and all... to Sicily to find my father’s, father’s birth place... and actually found it!!! And then we take the boat back to the mainland to find my Mother’s, father’s birth place, some place high in the mountains and meet a guy that imitates Steve Martin [a little too old for Christina] and he helps us find Pop’s info too!! Then we have lunch with these really nice strangers who thought we were relatives and then the next thing ya know we’re heading back to Rome @ 100+ MPH to wind up in this seedy little hotel because its near the train station... Then we wander all over Rome again!!!
The next thing I know, I’m waking up with this lousy cold. That had to be the Wackiest dream I’ve ever had!!!!"
Illy looked at me with that wistful smile of hers and with her eyes misting up she says, “Honey, that was no dream.”
Pointing to the 11 rolls of film and the panoramic throwaway camera on the desk, she beams,
“And I’ve got Proof!! Go take a shower, clear your head and come back to finish NOWAT ITALIA for our friends and Family.”
Well dear hearts… that’s just what I did. After a long hot shower and a quick run to the beach for Jamaican Eggs Benedict, we stopped at the mall to get the film developed. And now that the head is a little clearer, I can deliver the final Volume of NOWAT ITALIA and the finale of our Adventures in Italy.
Sit back and take a deep breath, this WILL NOT be a short ride.
As I related in the last note, we arrived back in Rome, too late for the car return, and had to stow it at a car park overnight. After checking into the hotel, the ever Hungry Illy, has now decided that we just MUST find the Piazza Navona to have dinner at one of those “cute little tourist Ristorantes” and browse the shops. So we ask this nice Polizia at the Stazione Termini near the hotel, for the best way to get there. He of course says, “You must take the A Train” [sounds like an old Jazz tune to me] to the Spanish Steps. The Piazza Navona is not far from there.... just a short walk.
Now here’s the deal.... DO NOT ever ask a cop in Italy for directions and expect to get a “Short Walk”. It went something like this: “Quando si arriva a Espagna, scendre Via Condotti, Sempre Diritto, a Via Cavor. Gira Sinistra, Sempre Diritto a il due semaforo y gira’ destra, sempre diritto [everything is “Sempre Diritto”] y Aproprio li !”
Loosely translated... ”When you get to the Spanish Steps, go down via Condotti [Rome’s version of Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive] straight ahead [Sempre diritto] to Via Cavor,” [another Kamakazie favored street, which properly is 4 lanes across, except at a stop light, where it then becomes 7 or 8 across---on one side!!! ... depending on the time of day] “Take a left on Via Cavor then, Hang a right at the second [or was it the 3rd] stop light [semaforo] and go straight ahead and there it is!” Yeah.... Right.... After arriving at the Spanish Steps and after 3 stops to verify this “short way” before we head out, one cop says... “Oh si signore... only 1 or 2 Kilometers.”
Yeah..... Right... and this Sempre Diritto stuff....
They forget to mention that there are a few slight lefts and slight rights etc... leading down some very interesting alleys and out again. Approximately “4” kilometers, 3 Cianare-u’s and we finally arrive at Piazza Navona, to collapse at the first nice looking spot.
I hustle off to pick up some spare Metro Tickets at the Tabacci to get us back to the hotel. After a leisurely meal, watching the mimes, gigolo’s, tourists and various street hustlers in the Piazza, we head out back to the Spanish Steps, the closest Metro station, only to find that the Metro shuts down at 11.30!!!
Soooo.... now we can’t go back the way we came.... the gates are closed behind us.... we are now trekking up the steps… and up the steps... and up the steps... out of the closed metro station... towards the far end of Via Veneto, which we follow to the Chica Chica Boom Club [still didn’t get in to see what all the fuss about this place was] and Flag down a Taxi who delivered us safely to the Hotel. Whewwww!
The next day.... I head out early while Illy plays hug-a-bed... [she needed it] to retrieve the car and return it Avis. [Don’t tell them about the tire rim, the boys in Montecalvo Irpino did such a good repair job, nobody will know] I was even able to talk him into covering the charges for the overnight parking because he closed early on me the night before. [They really didn’t but Hey....ya gotta give them a little guilt trip once in a while for all their Roman Attitude!!!] Now with a reduced bill in hand [can’t wait for them to get the traffic ticket in the mail from the Famous Naples Cianare-U in front of the cops at the tunnel]
I stop to pick up tickets for the train to the Airport Saturday morning. Now, the train is named the Leonardo “Express”.... after the Leonardo Da Vinci airport.... but trust me...as we found out at 5.51Am on Saturday, it is ANYTHING BUT an express. A supposed 28 minute ride took 54 minutes,putting us in a race for.... but wait..... again I’m ahead of the story. Anyhow.... got the tickets and Took Illy out for a quick breakfast, [the one at the hotel was so crowded that it wasn’t worth it] and headed out for a final “Arrivederci Roma”. Well not really Arrivederci, more like Ciao, because we had already decided that there was so much we hadn’t seen or could catch up with in just one day that a return trip would be in order soon.
Sooooo… of course the natural first stop was the Trevi fountain for a little insurance in the form of the traditional over the shoulder coin toss. Now remember the little pig in Florence, [Il Porcelino with coin drop off the tongue through the grates to insure a speedy return to Florence? Well if the legend, and the Rosano Brazzi “3 coins in the Fountain” movie hold true.... Chuckie will be back in Rome as well as Florence next year, while Illy, on the other hand, never even made the water on 3 tries.... [to be fair.... they chose this morning to drain and clean the fountain, so they had it roped off a bit too far back for the average person to pitch over the shoulder with any luck.] So as it stands... [We stopped a local Chiesa [church] for a little divine intervention with the coin bit and pray that] Illy may return with Chuck soon. [Of course she has got to get him past Florence first, where he has threatened to jump ship, get an apartment on the Arno and send Illy home to ship back his computer and files.]
Now we head out to finish our tour of Rome, pick up a few souvenirs, [”chotchkie’s” as Illy has taken to calling them] and see how many more Cianare-u’s we can make. Along the way, we decided to stop at a bank to change money for the purchases. Now hear this... If you ever have the choice of: doing any banking in Rome, or having root canal work... Choose the root canal! After standing in line at 4 different banks, only to find that 2, which advertised “Change” facilities don’t do it anymore... [But The signs are still all over the bank!!] The other 2 had impossibly long lines so we finally had to double back 4 blocks to the Banco De Roma. Here they at least had some place to sit while you waited for your number to be called [yep.... just like the deli at Publix] Cute digital sign “dings” your number and indicates the teller to go to.
On the Way out, Illy spots a little Carousela [Horse and Buggy] and decides that since we didn’t do one in Florence... NOW’s the time!! Sooooo… Back to the Trevi Fountain to find the right horse. Ya gotta understand... the ever humane, Tree Hugging and animal sensitive Cuban lady must first bond with the proper horse before she’ll get into the carriage... DON’T ASK... just work with me here!!!! So now we’re clomping along en-route to all the places we’ve already been to.... [but Hey....it’s in a carriage with a cute horse!!!!] First the Spanish Steps and the Monument to Michelangelo [don’t they have enough tributes to him yet???] which is to be dedicated by the Pope at the end of October, [Missed him again!!.... He gives blessings in St Peter’s on Wednesday... we arrive on Thursday! He comes out for blessings on Sunday... We leave on Saturday! Can’t seem to win with this GUY...] On with the clomp.... clomp... clomp to a quick glimpse from afar of the former women’s prison, Castel San Angelo near St Peter’s, [hey... I thought we were supposed to be getting a ride along the Tiber... A quick stop at the Argentine forum, another excavation in the middle of Rome, which is also now a Cat Sanctuary.... [you won’t believe the number of cats here...
Which reminds me....The Coloseo is also overrun with the alleged direct descendents of the famous Lions/Christian battles, but in a 1/16th scale model] The Argentine Forum is also adjacent to the Curia where, as all of you history buffs will recall ‘twas on that fateful day in March that Julius Ceasar felt a stabbing pain and then asked Brutus about his lunch plans. [“Et Tu Brute”? OK...OK bad pun....] Then we were off to Piaza Navona.... [Again] for some more Photo ops, then south to the Capital and finally Piazza Venezia, where you COULD gain access as opposed to an earlier erroneous report that you couldn’t. That’s what I get for asking a local hooker on a motor scooter that first night in the rain. After taking a picture of yet another monument to either Da Vinci or Michelangelo [can’t remember which by now] we set off to climb E V E R Y - L A S T S T E P of the Piazza Venezia for some stunning pictures. Then back down to stop by the Capital, considered to be one of the best Museums in Rome [which of course we did not have time to go into] Which also had its grand entrance and courtyard designed by Michelangelo, [this boy really does got around]. We then wandered around out back to discover the north end of the Foro Romano, or Roman Forum where, it is said, that Romulus and Remulus, legendary founders of Rome [who were raised by a wolf no less… perhaps this explains the Roman Gigolos [Wolves]…
Ok… OK, I’ll get on with it… where the Wolf boys built the foundation of the Roman empire in a Swamp. Upon tripping down the treacherous path, we met Signore Federico, who for a paltry sum will be our guide. The ever-skeptical Illy is not too keen on this idea because of his utterly disheveled look, but the ever-amused Chuckie is taken by this threadbare old man and senses an immediate passion for the subject is at hand [aside from his obvious passion for the grape]. It was well worth the price, Federico’s oratory truly blazed with passion, his deep insight and commentary as well as little known facts made the trip through the Forum most enjoyable and informative. When you get to Rome... this is another MUST stop, just to see the enormity of the ruins here and ponder the glory that was Rome. Quick pics around including the Cute archeological students working in the excavation, then a metro ride to Via Cavor [can’t escape this street.] and our last meal in Rome.
Cute little bar, where Chuck once again hustles the poor waiter out of a Cafe Cup [he’s been doing this all over Italy and has now completed his set of 6] and off to finish the souvenir hunt and find an internet kiosk to pen the last NOWAT from Rome. A stop along the way nets a canister of “ILLY” coffee, [wait till you see her picture under the “ILLY” sign in Sicily] and a special “ILLY” Collections Cafe Cup. A supposed real bargain $50 later!!! Chuck is still wondering how she pulled that one off [Wait… remember the 6 cups in Florence @ $80?] [Note to Chuck: do not let Illy do the bargaining... for AnyThing!]
Just a quick note for all of you who were expecting Holy Water from the Vatican... Fuhgedaboudit!!! It seems that you just can’t buy it anywhere!!! There seems to be a bit of a moral dilemma about selling the stuff. And… the only continual suggestion we got was to fill a bottle at some church when they weren’t looking, which for my part left doubt about the sanctity of something you had to steal from the church in the first place. So... to those in real need, please feel free to stop by your local parish with a bottle of Evian and have Father Tony bless it for you. I am told it works just the same.
By now it’s 9pm and time to see if the Credit card machine at the hotel has been fixed [wouldn’t want to stiff them on the bill, cause Chuckie has not enough cash left, cause Illy got all her Chotchkie’s... and the banks are closed. Of course the night desk clerk has no idea of what is happening, seems like the day crew forgot to pass on the details, or how to work the credit card machine.[sound familiar Rene’?] After a little persuasion, he finally calls someone who walks him through hooking up the right machine and all is well in Rome as we finish packing and crash for the night.
An early wake up call [he did get that one right] has us off to the Stazione Termini looking for a quick Cafe before boarding the afore mentioned Leonardo Express, only to find: you can’t get a cup of Cafe until after 7AM!! Since we leave at 5.41am, we have to wait until the “express” gets to the airport. Now from day one we have been told that due to all the increased security, we need to be at the airport no later than 2 hours in advance. Of course there is no way since the “Leonardo” wasn’t due to get there until 1½ hours in advance, and of course since it is running 30 minutes late.... we are hauling Ass to get to the check in counter... which is 10 deep.... but we make it through with time to spare for a quick cafe because… the flight is delayed getting off the ground....of course!
Now, once in Milan, we originally had only about 45 minutes to make the connection to Miami but now the plane from Rome is almost 35 minutes late.... and we have to clear Italian customs with only one line out while there were 3 coming in... and… of course you know the gate is at the other end of the airport... so here we are hauling Ass again only to find..... Due to increased security... [There are cops all over the plane] we are delayed first 15, then 30 then 45, and finally, 1 hour later, we are ready for boarding. Of course not before the carry on baggage and passports are checked 3 times before we can get past the gate, which is fine with me, rather safe than...
We finally lift off from Milan, take the last picture on the last roll of film of the tops of the French Alps and Bid Ciao to Italy. Flight home, the usual tedious 12 hour, jet lag producing stupor, which is made more tedious because now Chucky has a full dose of the Cold Illy caught in Florence and the fluctuating pressure in the cabin has his Sinus’ doing the Barometric BasaNova .
The pilot found Miami without a cianare-U… [I guess we were the only ones doing that] and we prepared to maneuver customs, where of course they had to confiscate my Prosciuto, [I did not know Mad Cow disease worked on Pigs] but that’s what they said. We did get through with some great Parmigiano-Reggiano and REAL Provologne. Then we almost had to arm wrestle the Customs officer over the Home made wine from Giusspe Mara- the miller in Montecalvo Irpino but she finally relented when the now exhausted Cuban Lady Swore to drink it then and there before she would surrender it. [Those of you at BAPCO KNOW that look in her eyes and how she can be when she digs her heels in!]
We were told I-95 was a parking lot so our ride home cut through Hialeah [as if you can just cut through Hialeah on a Saturday] and arrived safely in Hollywood.
To our Friends, Family and innocent bystanders who have received all our notes: We sincerely hope you have enjoyed traveling Italy with the Wacky American Tourist and the ever lovely if not sometimes Feisty Cuban Lady. Thanks for bearing with our little diatribe, we pray that we haven’t bored you too much with our fun, follies, adventures and sometimes anal details of what will forever be the most memorable two weeks of our lives. I will never look at another pictures of the DAVID, the Piata’ or the Sistine Chapel again without remembering the awesome majesty of Michelangelo’s genus. Nor can we ever forget the true raw emotion of walking the soil of my ancestors, or the fabulous mountain vistas above the clouds, or the Excitement that is Florence, or.... or.... Ahhhhh.... VIVA ITALIA!!!
The 356 pictures have been developed and they came out better than we had hoped for. They had trouble getting the last 3 rolls on a disk because the machine broke down, but we’ll have them in the next couple of days. As soon as we can get it organized we’ll either put them up on a web site for all to enjoy or perhaps arranged in a Powerpoint Slide show. Hell, the ever anal Chuck may even annotate them to match the NOWAT journals... but don’t count on it. Again, thanks for traveling with us we just wish you could have been along to really savor the sights, sounds and flavors that are Exclusively Italy.
May God Bless y’all with Love, Peace and Happiness!
Ciao 4 Now, Chuck and the thoroughly exhausted, but very content Cuban Lady
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
